High Performance Pontiac Magazine Forumshttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.comJoin the Pontiac Performance Forum at High-Performance Pontiac Magazine to discuss your Pontiac hot rod, modifications & performance, projects, latest news, shows & events, and more.http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9510213/racing-your-pontiac/drag-racing/Wed, 22 May 2013 02:05:25 -0700drag racing
A or B body?

drag racing | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[drag racing]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9510213/racing-your-pontiac/drag-racinghttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9509928/drivetrain-upgrade/tore-a-motor-mount-again/Tue, 21 May 2013 18:05:00 -0700tore a motor mount ...again
Recently adjusted my valve lash and noticed a few were out of adjustment. (Can notice the cam quite a bit more now) With the hood up, I was listening to the motor and watching through the little area and seen the motor lift about 3 inches. Im bummed because i just replaced that motor mount last fall. I knew I heard something funny recently. I went with a poly tranny mount. My question is what do you guys think of the poly motor mounts? Apparently Energy suspension has this to say.. im not familiar with the clamshell concept. A true performance application component for cars, trucks, hot rods and racing/competition vehicles - yet designed to be also used for street vehicles!Soft-running enough to absorb vibrations for street use yet rugged for racing use.When required- a torque resistant "safety interlock" design is used that is comparable in strength to those too hard-running metal mounts!Replaces the original, short lived and typically too-soft rubber mounts and outdates those hard-running metal motor mounts.The popular "Early" style mounts for General Motors® vehicles are available in either zinc or chrome metal finishes.Made of HYPER-FLEX™ performance polyurethane.Resistant to under vehicle fluids such as: oils, coolants, road contaminants, etc. General Motors- The ever popular "Early Style" patented interlocking motor mounts (two sizes) for General Motors® muscle cars and hot rods are available in two metal finishes/plating: Zinc or Chrome plating.The "Clam Shell Style" installation procedure involves that the metal clam shell is separated, the new Energy Suspension polyurethane mount is placed between and the metal clam is reused. This procedure saves you money and gives both lasting performance and durability!

tore a motor mount ...again | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[tore a motor mount ...again]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9509928/drivetrain-upgrade/tore-a-motor-mount-againhttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9509691/drivetrain-restoration/67-bonneville-400-motor-mount-question/Tue, 21 May 2013 03:05:23 -070067 bonneville 400 motor mount question
Hello It looks like you have the wrong rubber mounts, buy the ones in the pictures in the links below that do NOT look like the ones you have. It is a small possibility you might need one of each, you need to judge for yourself. Symmetrical “center” mount http://www.opgi.com/grand-prix/1967/chassis-suspension/bushings-mounts/GBC2902/ Asymetrical ‘offset” mounts http://www.opgi.com/grand-prix/1967/chassis-suspension/bushings-mounts/GBC2903/

67 bonneville 400 motor mount question | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[67 bonneville 400 motor mount question]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9509691/drivetrain-restoration/67-bonneville-400-motor-mount-questionhttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9509508/drivetrain-restoration/removing-the-harmonic-balancer/Tue, 21 May 2013 00:05:45 -0700Removing the harmonic balancer
You can make your own tool, just bolt something onto a starter bolt hole that will jam the flexplate by the teeth. Squarely so you don't chip one. One tool truck's version of an actual nice "flexplate holding tool" looks like this, although many kinds are available. Usually around twenty bucks. Yeah that damn thing is tight, ain't it? :o A good job for two people! http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/ft23800.jpg

Removing the harmonic balancer | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[Removing the harmonic balancer]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9509508/drivetrain-restoration/removing-the-harmonic-balancerhttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9437422/drivetrain-restoration/greenhorns-first-pontiac-needs-help/Mon, 20 May 2013 00:05:19 -0700Greenhorns first pontiac/needs help
Oh i forgot to add engine budget is around $4000.Street only but reliable & as much torque as i can get without compromising the reliability.

Greenhorns first pontiac/needs help | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[Greenhorns first pontiac/needs help]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9437422/drivetrain-restoration/greenhorns-first-pontiac-needs-helphttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9436160/drivetrain-upgrade/can-valve-springs-alone-15hp-gain/Sun, 19 May 2013 14:05:34 -0700can valve springs alone = 15HP gain ???
the 1973 455 is all stock except for 702 lunati cam and lifters ,comp roller tip rockers,and heads cut .040.(yes i reused my 40+ year old valve springs, they were good to break in the new cam.) i have a friend who before health issues was a circle track car mechanic for about 20 years. he says that by changing my wore out springs to what lunati called for (120lb springs), that i could get 15-20 hp. he swears he has seen it on the dyno. i have been wreching on v-8s for over 35 years, i graduated NADC in nashville in 1981, i thought i understood engine operation, but i dont understand this. if the old springs are closeing the valve why would stronger springs add any power??? any thoughts??? ps- max redline 5000rpm.

can valve springs alone = 15HP gain ??? | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[can valve springs alone = 15HP gain ???]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9436160/drivetrain-upgrade/can-valve-springs-alone-15hp-gainhttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9436361/misc-upgrade/where-to-start/Sun, 19 May 2013 14:05:50 -0700where to start?
Hi everybody first timer on here jus lookin for some experience and advice I have 2000 GTP Supercharger and I want to do some nice mods to it and wanted to know where to start or in your opinion where would you start?

where to start? | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[where to start?]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9436361/misc-upgrade/where-to-starthttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9436349/the-general-discussion/engine-cleaning-before-assembly/Sun, 19 May 2013 13:05:01 -0700Engine cleaning before assembly
naptha... is dangerous to use in most locations.. please be sure that the lid closes on your tank... and the pump is operated only when you step on the rubber balloon foot switch with the rest of the switches/relay enclosed in a vapor tight enclosure.. you are cleaning with a component of gasoline.. and usually.. naptha is used for rotating components final cleaning.. crank.. cam.. it is you shop... one engine rebuilder i know of lost their entire shop when the naptha solvent tank with a pump was left on.. when the foot pedal failed. do you have any HOT Water available?? like a hose bib to hook a garden hose to?? do you have a set of Oil galley brushes??? these are LONG LONG tube cleaning brushes.. available if you ask the proper person at the local parts store.. or online.. use nylon versions.. but steel versions are also available.. http://www.brushresearch.com/images/cat2/nylon.jpg i personally.. since i don't have easy access to a JET cleaning tank.. use first street brand heavy duty cleaner degreaser with various brushes.. then hot water... a second cleaning and more hot water.. then either blow dry or spray down with some WD40 to prevent rust.. depends what i am going to paint.. i also run taps in every threaded hole i can get at and blow them out with either brake cleaner or carb spray cleaner... depending on the size of your air compressor... you can also take some pipe and some valves and a tee and make a combo water air spray washer... you will need at least a 45 degree and a short nipple at the end so you don't get splashed right back at you.. since you have a pressure washer... do you have any lathes? that might allow you to thread some tube stock.. to fasten to the pressure washer wand... and allow you to slit the slides of the new wand so you can insert the wand deep into the oil galleys and pressure wash them internally... i sometimes think about getting brush research to create a few special ball hones in small diameters on long stems to allow me to hone the inside of the oil galleys.. as the balls would also take off some of the sharp corners... i guess i will have to drive over to east la and see if they can do that for my next engine build.. they already make tiny ball hones.. it's just the length of the tool thats holding me back...

Engine cleaning before assembly | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[Engine cleaning before assembly]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9436349/the-general-discussion/engine-cleaning-before-assemblyhttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9508392/drivetrain-upgrade/turbo-400-speedometer-gears-where-and-what-to-buy/Sat, 18 May 2013 15:05:41 -0700turbo 400 speedometer gears ? (where and what to buy)
Good luck finding drive gears! The driven gears are no problem but all the new drive gears are steel-presson gears that didn't fit my TH400. I had a 16 tooth drive and needed a 15 tooth to calibrate my Tempest and I went around to a couple of trans shops and asked until I found a used one. You may need to change the adapter that goes in the side of the tail housing of the trans as well, they are mark with a minimum and maximum tooth count that they will fit. Wallace racing has a good calculator on their website for choosing the right combo of gears. Steve

turbo 400 speedometer gears ? (where and what to buy) | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[turbo 400 speedometer gears ? (where and what to buy)]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9508392/drivetrain-upgrade/turbo-400-speedometer-gears-where-and-what-to-buyhttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9435557/misc-restoration/im-sick-of-cheap-auto-parts-store/Fri, 17 May 2013 18:05:04 -0700I'm sick of cheap auto-parts store??
I am getting tired of putting a new auto part every year. I just keep getting them from the local auto supply and they suck. I'm willing to spend some cash to buy a good one and wanted some opinions.

I'm sick of cheap auto-parts store?? | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[I'm sick of cheap auto-parts store??]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9435557/misc-restoration/im-sick-of-cheap-auto-parts-storehttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9436489/drivetrain-upgrade/4-speed-conversion-kits/Fri, 17 May 2013 16:05:06 -07004-speed conversion kits
Converting my '64 326 LeMans to a 4-speed, already had the tranny, now trying to piece together the rest of the parts. I read a couple very good posts here on the parts required, anyone have any feedback on this pedal and linkage kit: http://www.thepartsplaceinc.com/newproducts.asp?SearchText=1964-66+GTO+LEMANS+MANUAL+TRANSMISSION+CONVERSION+KIT+%96+PIN+STYLE Seems to save a little over buying a bunch of parts. Also, anyone know if the '64 bellhousing is unique? Lots of bellhousings on Ebay. Thanks.

4-speed conversion kits | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[4-speed conversion kits]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9436489/drivetrain-upgrade/4-speed-conversion-kitshttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9435395/drivetrain-upgrade/488-stock-block-build/Fri, 17 May 2013 13:05:12 -0700488 stock block build
Hey guys this is my first post after being a long time lurker. I know this post is long but more info the better. I'm thinking about doing another engine build soon and would like to hear what you guys think. I want to make a pump gas 650 hp engine. My budget is around 6000-7500 dollars. I just want spend my money wisely while doing this build. For the foundation i found a couple 4bolt main 400s on Craigslist for a good price. Is this a good way to go or should I invest in a aftermarket block? The machine work on an old block sounds better to my wallet then a 2000+ dollar aftermarket block. For the rotating assembly i was looking at eagle's stoker kit with 4.5 stroke bored .35 over. I don't know what heads i want use either KRE High-ports or Rolands CV-1 heads. Are the CV-1 heads going overboard for what i want to do? They're more expensive then the high ports and you have to buy a special intake, i already have a KRE north-wind intake i would like to use. What would be a good street cam but also give my the power i want? Should i go with a solid, hydraulic roller cam? Trying to make this much power will i need to have a vacuum pump? I would rather not have to use one if possible. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

488 stock block build | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[488 stock block build]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9435395/drivetrain-upgrade/488-stock-block-buildhttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9436357/drivetrain-restoration/starter-hangs-on-cold-start/Fri, 17 May 2013 01:05:01 -0700Starter hangs on cold start
well... get under the dash.... find the PURPLE wire that goes thru to the solenoid... there are several connections under the dash.. where the neutral safety switch is... either on the column or on the console.. add a short stripped back wire into that junction connection. hook that to a test light to see if something electrical is hanging up... ignition switch... ignition actuation devices in the column.. or just slightly out of adjustment on the ignition.. on the starter motor... find a 1/8" drillbit.. or a 1/8" rod or 0.125" rod.. stick that between the outside of the flywheel ring gear teeth and the starter shaft with the gear retracted.. between the tops of the flywheel gear teeth and the starter shaft should be really close to 0.125" if you had the starter drive off.. and measured from the ROOT of the TEETH... /\_/\_/\_ to the bushing inner wall. you will find that about 0.135 or so perhaps a little more.. that puts the starter at the proper engagement. you did not say if you are running a stock starter motor.. but it seems you are..

Starter hangs on cold start | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[Starter hangs on cold start]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9436357/drivetrain-restoration/starter-hangs-on-cold-starthttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9436354/drivetrain-restoration/starter-hangs-on-cold-start/Fri, 17 May 2013 01:05:59 -0700Starter hangs on cold start
Hi, first off I hope I am posting in the right place, I did search and found no similar problems like mine on the site. I just purchased a complete 72 LeMans with a stock 350 for an incredible price. Anyway it hadn't been driven in 3 years, so when I got my hands on it I did the standard stuff before attempting to start, new gas, plugs, rotor, points etc... The issue is the first time it is turned over when you start it when the engine is cold the starter sticks and continues cranking till the power is killed (ignition key turned off), the car never actually starts when this happens. It will do that once or twice then fire up and not do it again until it has sat for an extended amount of time, 6 hrs or so. My initial thought was starter solenoid, however that has been replaced and then verified good later. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated Thanks in advance

Starter hangs on cold start | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[Starter hangs on cold start]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9436354/drivetrain-restoration/starter-hangs-on-cold-starthttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9436219/drivetrain-upgrade/carb-bugs-revisited-455-sleeper/Fri, 17 May 2013 00:05:17 -0700carb bugs revisited (455 sleeper)
after much work trying to get my car to start after 4-5 days, i had re jb-welded the well plugs and installed a stock fuel filter with a check valve. problem with starting gone. new problem (running out of fuel at about 4500-4800 rpm in 1st gear.) let off gas shift into 2nd and all is well, hammer it in 2nd runs out of fuel about 4500rpm.(big bog and nose dive) brought it home let it cool about a hour, removed the stock filter and , problem is gone, guess i will live with the 7-10 seconds of starting when i let it set for 4-5 days or more. i will not stand for the running out of fuel . test drove after removing fuel filter and all is well... the quadrajet fourms were right, throw that sucker away... ps- took some friends for a ride, they cant believe it is running a stock cast iron intake and exhaust. (they were impressed with all that torque) one of them sugested a larger carb...

carb bugs revisited (455 sleeper) | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[carb bugs revisited (455 sleeper)]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9436219/drivetrain-upgrade/carb-bugs-revisited-455-sleeperhttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9506760/the-general-discussion/formula-350-1991/Thu, 16 May 2013 03:05:07 -0700Formula 350 1991
You are welcome! At least the bumper doesn't have a bunch of complex shapes to it so most of the work may go fairly quick with a sander. Those are really big bumpers though. He can probably make it look real nice once that extra labor is done.

Formula 350 1991 | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[Formula 350 1991]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9506760/the-general-discussion/formula-350-1991http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9506652/the-general-discussion/hi-there/Thu, 16 May 2013 02:05:06 -0700Hi there.
Nice product, the tool pockets are a nice touch. I may be interested in one for my 79 Formula. Do you have a pattern for 70 GTO yet? I also have a 70 Tempest and a GTO pattern cover would fit it as well. Steve

Hi there. | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[Hi there.]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9506652/the-general-discussion/hi-therehttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9506292/drivetrain-restoration/engine-electrical-system-diagram-please/Wed, 15 May 2013 14:05:47 -0700Engine Electrical system Diagram Please
Sorry I ment the one that doesn't go to the distributor

Engine Electrical system Diagram Please | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[Engine Electrical system Diagram Please]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9506292/drivetrain-restoration/engine-electrical-system-diagram-pleasehttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9435136/the-general-discussion/69-trans-am/Wed, 15 May 2013 01:05:28 -070069 trans am
new member here.. I used to subscribe to the mag years ago... when I sold my 68 tempest convertable... 428 4 bolt... 66 tri power set up M21 4 speed 12 bolt 331 posi years ago.... then a fiero 2m6.....then a 94 formula..... well after those cars I stoped my subscription.... Ok so a buddy of mine just came across well sort of a barn find... 4, 69 firebird V 8's 2 are documented TRANS AM RA III's 1 auto with air and one 4 speed. He wants to sell the auto and might restore the 4 speed both cars appear complete including the ram air setups. I know what he wants to get for the auto... So I am lookiong for offers. I have no Pics yet but will be getting some within a week or so. Spread the word these rare classics need to be restored. I believe the auto is in better shape and might run no major rot... still white with blue stripes.

69 trans am | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[69 trans am]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9435136/the-general-discussion/69-trans-amhttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9433451/pontiac-restoration/pontiac-rear-end/Tue, 14 May 2013 22:05:35 -0700pontiac rear end
I am restoring a 1970 Formula 400 and need to know if I can put a 4:10 posi ring and pinion in the housing. It currently has a 2:56 posi in it.I think it is an 8.5 with a 10 bolt cover. This is my first project as a recent retiree and I know a lot of you guys have a wealth of knowledge to share, and this seems like great forum.

pontiac rear end | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[pontiac rear end]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9433451/pontiac-restoration/pontiac-rear-endhttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9432602/drivetrain-restoration/fuel-gauge-haywire/Mon, 13 May 2013 17:05:15 -0700fuel gauge haywire
I thought it used to work but now that I think about it..I have no idea. It goes very high to max with 3/4 of a tank. It is alway relative in a high reading. I know once at at an 1/8 its empty. I ran out 2 times once near a gas station (learning experience. And once in my driveway. like its reading just at improper level (1/4 high all the time). I see it slowly going down like it normally would as you drive.. Ok ill try grounding it out and turn key on and let you know. Thanks again

fuel gauge haywire | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[fuel gauge haywire]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9432602/drivetrain-restoration/fuel-gauge-haywirehttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9432521/drivetrain-restoration/identifying-your-manual-transmission/Mon, 13 May 2013 17:05:32 -0700Identifying your manual transmission
Since you guys helped me with my Cam Shaft upgrade so well, maybe you can help me with this one. I cant look at the car right now cause I am in the Middle east, but I have a 4 speed manual transmission in a 74 TA. I am positive it is the original Tranny. The engine is a WT Block 400 Pontiac and the gears in the rear axle are 3.42. Were Muncies placed in the 74 TA or had they gone to the T-10 Tranny on the 400 ci powered 74 TAs? I was reading, if you werent sure to count the bolt in the bell housing, but not sure if that is correct. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks

Identifying your manual transmission | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[Identifying your manual transmission]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9432521/drivetrain-restoration/identifying-your-manual-transmissionhttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9504978/drivetrain-restoration/400-block-wanted/Mon, 13 May 2013 04:05:05 -0700400 Block Wanted
Called Bruce at Pontiac Engines and he's out, I guess I'll have to drive up to 29 Palms 2 hr 30 min drive, was hoping to find something a ill more local, thanks 70bird...

400 Block Wanted | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[400 Block Wanted]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9504978/drivetrain-restoration/400-block-wantedhttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9504867/the-general-discussion/new-guy-valve-train-question/Mon, 13 May 2013 01:05:54 -0700new guy valve train question
Hello d-rock Do you know if it has a big cam and springs? I got the car home and did a compression test. All the cylinders were within 10lbs of each other except the number 5 which had no compression at all. What exactly is the compression of all cylinders? xxxxx I took the valve covers off to take a look at the rockers and they are damn near falling off the pushrods! Are they std or rollers? xxxxx I first tried the chevy way of adjusting them but even with the nuts locked all the way down the rockers are just super loose. This could be caused by push in type rocker studs pulling out of the head. Since your studs are lockdown type I’m guessing they are push in’s. If this is the case, simply put a straight edge along the top of at least 6 of them at a time and see if they are all within around .010” of each other. Any difference in height of more than around .010” strongly suggests your studs are pulling out which is caused by using springs that are significantly stronger than the stock ones and/or using a cam with a lift that is significantly higher than stock. The higher lift cam on a stock spring creates more spring pressure than the stock cam that doesn’t depress the spring as far. Do you mean there is a gap between the lifter and the top of the valve or is there still spring preload from the lifter? Are they solid or hydraulic? If you are not sure you can push down on the lifter side of all the rockers and see if any of them feel like they have a spring in them or not. xxxxx I can rock the lifter back and forth a good 3/4" side to side. Excessive side to side play is typically because if your particular car does not use factory rail rockers are guide plates then it has narrow slots cast into the heads that center the push rods and for some reason they are no longer the factory size and are in fact larger than they should be. xxxxx I would like to perform a leak down test on my cylinder, but want to get this valve train figured out first. Since the damage is done you might simply spin up the oil pump and if you can get oil pit the rockers turn the motor and see if the ones on the cylinder with low compression fail to open as far as the others if you have established your push rods are not pulling out of the heads.

new guy valve train question | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[new guy valve train question]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9504867/the-general-discussion/new-guy-valve-train-questionhttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9433213/drivetrain-upgrade/fun-trivia-question-what-is-55-long-has-12-boltsand/Sat, 11 May 2013 15:05:39 -0700fun trivia question. what is 55" long, has 12 bolts..and
Hello If you're lucky it's out of a 68-69 F body car because it's worth at least $1500.00 or more then ie Z28. Axle ratio codes can easily be changed.

fun trivia question. what is 55" long, has 12 bolts..and | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[fun trivia question. what is 55" long, has 12 bolts..and]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9433213/drivetrain-upgrade/fun-trivia-question-what-is-55-long-has-12-boltsand