High Performance Pontiac Magazine Forumshttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.comJoin the Pontiac Performance Forum at High-Performance Pontiac Magazine to discuss your Pontiac hot rod, modifications & performance, projects, latest news, shows & events, and more.http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9010409/drivetrain-upgrade/11-inch-clutch-in-a-bellhousing-9785581/index.htmlWed, 01 Feb 2012 20:02:50 -080011 inch clutch in a Bellhousing #9785581
Guys, will a 11 inch clutch assembly work in a Pontiac bellhousing casting number 9785581? It was orginally a 10.4", but have up graded the engine to plus 550 Ft.lbs of torque and would like to run the bigger clutch. Did pontiac have two different bellhousings for the 10.4 and 11.0 clutches?

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]]><![CDATA[11 inch clutch in a Bellhousing #9785581]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9010409/drivetrain-upgrade/11-inch-clutch-in-a-bellhousing-9785581http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9010265/drivetrain-restoration/distributor-jam/index.htmlWed, 01 Feb 2012 18:02:59 -0800Distributor jam
So last night I did some tests and think I've isolated the problem to the distributor. I was told I could pull it out relatively easy but the damn thing seems stuck. My mechanic buddy said I could leave the engine at TDC #8, mark it and pull it out. Problem got the hold down bolt and the fork coupler off and was able to wiggle the distributor up about 1/4 inch....He told me to use a pry bar or screwdriver at the bottom of the base to get it up...No go....is there anything else holding down the distributor? or do I just need to use some man muscle....? One thing after another...broke a spark plug off last night and the day before snapped the cable to the transmission position gauge at the column doing the ignition switch...don't wanna break anything else.. any help? Thanks

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]]><![CDATA[Distributor jam]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9010265/drivetrain-restoration/distributor-jamhttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9017104/the-general-discussion/so-i-had-a-stuck-locking-lug-nut/index.htmlMon, 30 Jan 2012 23:01:50 -0800so i had a stuck locking lug nut
They sell special sockets for that job just hammer them on and impact them off with gun . I have a set of three different sizes .

so i had a stuck locking lug nut | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[so i had a stuck locking lug nut]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9017104/the-general-discussion/so-i-had-a-stuck-locking-lug-nuthttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9006380/drivetrain-restoration/best-place-to-order-engine-paint/index.htmlMon, 30 Jan 2012 17:01:02 -0800Best Place to Order Engine Paint
I need to Order this paint for my '67 GP PlastiKote 227 Pontiac Blue Met Engine Enamel - 12 Oz. Where is the best place to order? Was going to order from Amazon, but the paint was almost $14 for 2 cans, shipping was almost $20. Just do not feel like paying that much for shipping! Thanks, Patti

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]]><![CDATA[Best Place to Order Engine Paint]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9006380/drivetrain-restoration/best-place-to-order-engine-painthttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9006017/drivetrain-upgrade/limited-slip-spiders/index.htmlMon, 30 Jan 2012 04:01:34 -0800limited slip spiders
dropped the pan and found my spider bushings on the magnet. I know i can get it appart but how do i get the s spring and the spider gears back in. Havent done the job yet just kinda want to know a little before hand.

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]]><![CDATA[limited slip spiders]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9006017/drivetrain-upgrade/limited-slip-spidershttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9068781/body-paint-upgrade/poll-what-color-makes-you-look/index.htmlSun, 29 Jan 2012 16:01:43 -0800Poll: What color makes you look?
Yeah P-man, I couldn't think of that color, sorta a peachy-orange. I guess you could call it creamcycle. Dang makes me want icecream.

Poll: What color makes you look? | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[Poll: What color makes you look?]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9068781/body-paint-upgrade/poll-what-color-makes-you-lookhttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9015859/drivetrain-upgrade/burning-up-clutches/index.htmlSun, 29 Jan 2012 02:01:17 -0800Burning up clutches
I have a friend with a 450 HP SBC in a Ventura running a Kiesler 6 speed. He fried Zoom and Hayes clutches and then ended up with a Centerforce and that one holds. Don't know which exact clutches, but Centerforce seems like very sturdy stuff.

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]]><![CDATA[Burning up clutches]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9015859/drivetrain-upgrade/burning-up-clutcheshttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9068433/drivetrain-upgrade/how-to-brake-in-a-new-motor-when-you-cant-drive-the-car/index.htmlSat, 28 Jan 2012 23:01:18 -0800How to brake in a new motor when you can't drive the car.
Oh it has a roller cam so when I started it I ran it at about 1000 -1500 until it was up to temp,then set the trimming and dialed in the carb,checked the trans fluid ect. All ok.

How to brake in a new motor when you can't drive the car. | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[How to brake in a new motor when you can't drive the car.]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9068433/drivetrain-upgrade/how-to-brake-in-a-new-motor-when-you-cant-drive-the-carhttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9014968/drivetrain-upgrade/6x-4-heads/index.htmlFri, 27 Jan 2012 23:01:10 -08006x 4 heads
No the 6X heads should have harden seats already.

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]]><![CDATA[6x 4 heads]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9014968/drivetrain-upgrade/6x-4-headshttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9014212/chassis-restoration/a-body-rear-sway-bar/index.htmlFri, 27 Jan 2012 17:01:44 -0800A body rear sway bar
:D Hi Bob, If he owned a Poncho powered Jaguar he would not have these problamos.. :shocked: :mad: :o :confused: :) :cool: :grin: All the best and each to their own..Howzit going Stateside with one politician calling another politician a "LIAR".. :confused: :shocked: :o :( :cool:

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]]><![CDATA[A body rear sway bar]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9014212/chassis-restoration/a-body-rear-sway-barhttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9066882/drivetrain-restoration/no-spark-no-start/index.htmlFri, 27 Jan 2012 05:01:57 -0800No Spark No Start
GC420... are you still having problems with this same 73 lemans 350????? do you have the points still .. a window cap.. i just finished working on a 73 chevy truck.. NO spark.. it would run while cranking. but as soon as you let go.. the engine died.. what it turned out to be was a bad ignition switch on the column.. http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/wl2/LS309/image/4/ there are two different versions of this.. one for a conventional steering column.. a slightly different one for tilt columns.. where the sliding contacts drop down off the rail onto the ignition power contact .. that segment was so deeply worn that it was just not making contact.. i will have pictures perhaps tomorrow

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]]><![CDATA[No Spark No Start]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9066882/drivetrain-restoration/no-spark-no-starthttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9001781/drivetrain-restoration/engine-paint/index.htmlWed, 25 Jan 2012 21:01:29 -0800Engine Paint
Hey guys, don't know if you care, but I found this real cool site that shows the proper engine colors for several years for Pontiac engines. The guy painting my car painted my engine the wrong color and I needed it to show him. Apparently the place he gets his paint/supplies did not know the proper color for '67. I knew right away when I saw the engine it was wrong, so I searched and found this site. Looks as if he used paint for a '73. Looks beautiful, but wrong, and I want it to be right. So anyhow, here is the link for anyone interested. This is what it says about the paint for '66-'70 'Pontiac Metallic Blue They recommend a silver base coat first. Paint is reportedly difficult to apply, takes a long time to dry and does not look exactly like the factory color. This color is no longer listed on their website.' So what does that mean? Also, I have never seen anyone that had their engines them years painted that color. Thanks in advance for the input. http://pontiacpower.org/enginecolor.htm

Engine Paint | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[Engine Paint]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9001781/drivetrain-restoration/engine-painthttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9001412/off-topic/is-it-possible-to-clone-a-ram-air-4-400-370hp/index.htmlWed, 25 Jan 2012 18:01:39 -0800Is it possible to clone a ram air 4 -400 370hp??
heading sez it all.can it be done and what is the reciepe???heads,cam and so on.can it be done with a 78 "YA" block?just seen a ram air 4 judge had wheels turning.Is it #48 heads?i gave a set of these away when i got my bird they where in trunk(Ouch)lol cam specs and will it have a choppy idle like my lunatti brak 2?

Is it possible to clone a ram air 4 -400 370hp?? | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[Is it possible to clone a ram air 4 -400 370hp??]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9001412/off-topic/is-it-possible-to-clone-a-ram-air-4-400-370hphttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9063465/interior-upgrade/66-67-gto-dash-gauge-pod/index.htmlWed, 25 Jan 2012 03:01:29 -080066'-67' GTO dash gauge pod
man that's awesome g8ter"! I always got P.O'd when I scanned the catalogs and a three gage cluster either on the dash or the "a" pillar. they only seem to offer to "select cars.. neccesity is the mother of invention! rock on dude!

66'-67' GTO dash gauge pod | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[66'-67' GTO dash gauge pod]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9063465/interior-upgrade/66-67-gto-dash-gauge-podhttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/8999612/interior-restoration/remove-dash-as-a-single-unit/index.htmlTue, 24 Jan 2012 06:01:42 -0800Remove dash as a single unit.
I have read in a couple of posts, on other sites, that the dash on GM cars built in the 70s was installed as a single unit. A third party contractor assembled the dashes and then shipped them to GM and then they were installed as the vehicle came by on the line. According to what the post said you only had to disconnect the speedometer cable, unhook the vacuum hoses, unscrew the mounting screws on the fuse block, and then unbolt the main mounting posts and remove the dash as a unit in about 15 minutes. My question is has anyone had any experience with this type of uninstall?

Remove dash as a single unit. | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[Remove dash as a single unit.]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/8999612/interior-restoration/remove-dash-as-a-single-unithttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/8999165/the-general-discussion/petronix-d1202-dist-adjustments/index.htmlTue, 24 Jan 2012 01:01:38 -0800Petronix D1202 Dist adjustments
I was adjusting my timing and have a potential problem. I removed the vacuum advance and set the initial timing to 14 BTDC (idle at 800). I slowly started raising the RPM adjusting the timing light to show total timing and found the total timing only 29 degrees coming in by 2000 RPM. I think total timing should be around 36-37 degrees coming in aroung 2500 RPM. I can't find a spring kit for the Petronix to increase the RPM and can't find any way to increase the total mechanical timing. I can't run 20 degrees initial timing. Any ideas? Thanks!

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]]><![CDATA[Petronix D1202 Dist adjustments]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/8999165/the-general-discussion/petronix-d1202-dist-adjustmentshttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9061626/body-paint-restoration/1968-tempest-dynacorn-fenders-and-doors/index.htmlMon, 23 Jan 2012 23:01:32 -08001968 Tempest - Dynacorn Fenders and Doors
First step in posting pics is deciding where to "host" them. I often use photobucket dot com, or my Google blog. Both are free, but photobucket allows you to alter the picture if needed. Once they are on the web somewhere, its a matter of inserting a link to the pic in the text of your post. Several different ways to do it, but its worth figuring out especially for bodywork discussions. I can walk you through if need be on that, and also on making repairs. I have tons of experience in this area, and a handful of the others here also have the skills. Unfortunately, I don't have any pics of doing a "both layers" lower fender repair. It is sort of advanced bodywork, but a 68 Tempest should be more forgiving than some other designs. If you think you might want to tackle it, we can guide you. The template idea is a step in the right direction. If I were making these lower fender repairs, I would probably do so with the fenders installed and only remove the driver's side at the end, to paint the backside. A logical chain of steps will keep you from getting the lines all out of whack. Theres usually hope. On the other hand, it is very difficult to say just how much work a new aftermarket part will need. Occasionally you get lucky but not very. If a $400 fender or door would fit like a GM one made in 1970, well of course that would be the way to go. You just never know until you try it on the subject vehicle. I have laid a little car fender up on the car and said "No way this will ever fit!", but once i got all the bolts in and tightened them, presto it fit great. So nothing is carved in stone, but generally speaking, "stick with your originals" is a good rule of thumb. You know those fit the car!

1968 Tempest - Dynacorn Fenders and Doors | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[1968 Tempest - Dynacorn Fenders and Doors]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9061626/body-paint-restoration/1968-tempest-dynacorn-fenders-and-doorshttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9061035/the-general-discussion/russo-and-steele/index.htmlMon, 23 Jan 2012 15:01:37 -0800Russo and Steele
A few other pictures http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h428/mb68bird/gto.jpg http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h428/mb68bird/79.jpg http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h428/mb68bird/73.jpg http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h428/mb68bird/70.jpg http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h428/mb68bird/67bird.jpg

Russo and Steele | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[Russo and Steele]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9061035/the-general-discussion/russo-and-steelehttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9009910/drivetrain-upgrade/torque-converter/index.htmlSun, 22 Jan 2012 17:01:55 -0800torque converter
cam specs are 279/297 duration .478/.465 lift 107 degrees lobe sepperation

torque converter | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[torque converter]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9009910/drivetrain-upgrade/torque-converterhttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9009304/interior-restoration/71-lemans-interior-restoration-pics/index.htmlSun, 22 Jan 2012 01:01:17 -080071 lemans interior restoration *PICS*
Instg8ter check your PM Andy

71 lemans interior restoration *PICS* | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[71 lemans interior restoration *PICS*]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9009304/interior-restoration/71-lemans-interior-restoration-picshttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9008737/the-general-discussion/billet-fuel-filter-recommendations/index.htmlSat, 21 Jan 2012 04:01:46 -0800Billet fuel filter recommendations
I want to add a billet fuel filter to my 68 GTO 400, Summit has a gazillion to choose from. Does anyone have any recommendations as to which one I should go with? They've got such a range of GPH and micron size that I have no idea where to go. The engine has a new stock rotating assembly, performer intake, holley carb. Car is for street use. Thanks!

Billet fuel filter recommendations | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[Billet fuel filter recommendations]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9008737/the-general-discussion/billet-fuel-filter-recommendationshttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9056901/body-paint-restoration/70-gto-hood-question/index.htmlThu, 19 Jan 2012 09:01:59 -080070 GTO hood question
I have not dealt with this specific issue before. However after many years of fixing wrecks and doing restorations, I do have some insight. It was never the hood's fault. Age and the hinges are to blame, if not a collision. But why it bent is not the question. If the side of the hood fits the top of the fender, just fix the hood skin and be gentle with it and lube the hinges well. If theres cracked paint on the underside and/or the contour doesn't match the fender, I recommend another hood. The trouble is that if you reinforce that area, the hood could shear off the hinge and get inside the car with you in a wreck. It HAS to be weak there. Seriously. I have seen plenty of angle iron attached to that spot by folks who never thought of that. But if the hood doesn't buckle in a wreck, the hinges can't open up and all the force goes into shearing the bolts and sending the hood thru the windshield. Those hood back corners are pointy as hell and can head right for your face, doesn't take a bad wreck. Casket closed. If its just cosmetic and the inner structure is not rusty, just fix the lump and go on. If the skin is good but theres a kink or rust on just that spot on the inner, you could maybe do a butt-welded patch there as long as you use the same gauge, copy the original contour, and make a proper weld.

70 GTO hood question | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[70 GTO hood question]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/9056901/body-paint-restoration/70-gto-hood-questionhttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/8992139/body-paint-restoration/t-top-gaskets/index.htmlWed, 18 Jan 2012 22:01:07 -0800T-top gaskets
hey everyone, ive sort of got a problem and was wandering if anyone else has encountered the same thing, i cant find to much info on the web. Anyway i own a 1981 trans am with t-tops. The t-top and door gaskets in sort need to be changed. I ordered a gasket kit and put only the driver side t-top gasket on so far. this is where my problems began , these new seals unlike the old ones on the car have no pre- formed spot for the window, in other words where the window meets up with the t-top, theres no exact spot for it to go like the older ones, its just a flat peice of rubber. The problem with that is when i close the door, it pushes the window out so far its barly touching the new gaskets. This also makes my door a pain to try and close all the way since its such a tight fit. the company said that it would take a week for the gaskets to "mold" to the window but if it does "mold" the way it sits, my window looks wrong and the seal itself would be on the edge of becoming leaky again. I can understand this is probaly a very confusing post, but i was wandering if anyone has encountered something like this or if i maybe should look into another set of gaskets that are more like the orignial looking ones. Any input would be appreciated.

T-top gaskets | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[T-top gaskets]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/8992139/body-paint-restoration/t-top-gasketshttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/8991995/drivetrain-restoration/overheating-issue-no-water-pump-divider-plate/index.htmlWed, 18 Jan 2012 19:01:50 -0800Overheating issue (no water pump divider plate)
Please help! I posted this on an old, existing thread, but don't know if it will be seen there. I have had a mysterious overheating issue ever since my motor was rebuilt. I won't bore y'all with the details, but the missing water pump divider plate seems to be the culprit. Oddly, the engine does not overheat at idle—even when idling for 15-20 minutes. But if I drive it around the block the temp creeps up. If I drive three blocks or so, it's in full boil-over mode. I removed the hose from the top of the block to check the water pump, and although I took it off and verified that the impeller spins freely, the pump (when connected) pumped no water whatsoever out of the top hose. Would having no divider plate render the water pump useless like that? It seems odd that no water at all would be pumped, but that is the reality. Also, the radiator is new and has been flushed. I also flushed water into the top of the block and it comes out, which would seem to indicate that there is no blockage within the engine itself. Does it sound like the plate would cause this? I would greatly appreciate any feedback!

Overheating issue (no water pump divider plate) | Digg It | Add to del.icio.us
]]><![CDATA[Overheating issue (no water pump divider plate)]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/8991995/drivetrain-restoration/overheating-issue-no-water-pump-divider-platehttp://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/8991926/drivetrain-upgrade/holley-750-bog-hesitation/index.htmlWed, 18 Jan 2012 19:01:26 -0800Holley 750 bog/hesitation
Are you sure the timing isn't out of adjustment.

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]]><![CDATA[Holley 750 bog/hesitation]]>http://forums.highperformancepontiac.com/70/8991926/drivetrain-upgrade/holley-750-bog-hesitation