In 1979, Pontiac saw fit to offer a rear disc brake option, which was also included in the WS6 performance package. These Firebirds were considered exotic despite the fact that many European and even a few American cars offered them for years. Some owners raved about the shorter stopping distance while other owners lamented the reliability problems, which included frozen calipers on occasion.
It's 2001 and every performance car worth its salt has monster-sized rear disc brakes. What's an owner of a vintage Firebird to do? One option is to look for a factory rear disc brake setup, pay top dollar and then replace all of the worn parts for more cash. Another choice is to give Stainless Steel Brakes Corporation a call. The company has a rear disc brake kit, which employs single-piston calipers with 10.5-inch rotors that bolt right onto the corporate 10-bolt found in most Second Gen. Firebirds. Since our T/A needed everything, we ordered up stainless steel lines for the system and replacement front rotors in the stock 11-inch size as well.
Since I usually do things backwards, I figured that we would begin at the rear by installing the hard parts of the disc brake setup in this installment. We will continue with the brake lines, emergency brake cables and front brakes in the next issue. See the photos for the details.
1. Since we just rebuilt the...
1. Since we just rebuilt the rear a few issues ago, I won't detail the removal of the drum brakes. Once those parts are out of the way, the differential must be drained and the cover removed to access the axles. Since the T/A uses axles retained with the C-clips, the pinion shaft lock bolt must be removed first. And then the pinion shaft (shown in the center) must be slid out.
2. With the pinion shaft out...
2. With the pinion shaft out of the way, each axle can be pushed toward the center of the vehicle to dislodge the C-clips as shown. Then the axles can be slid out of the axle housing. Take care not to ruin the axle seal in the process. The backing plates can now be removed and discarded.
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3. This is as far as you need...
3. This is as far as you need to tear down the rear. Note the bearings and seal are dry because the rear was in the process of a rebuild at the time when the photos were taken.
4. With tape protecting the...
4. With tape protecting the seal and bearings from dirt, the Stainless Steel Brakes-provided caliper bracket is bolted into place. The brackets are the same for both sides as the caliper must be mounted ahead of the axle on the driver's side and behind the axle on the passenger side, to avoid interference with the staggered shock arrangement. (Shocks aren't yet installed.)
5. The galvanized steel splash...
5. The galvanized steel splash shield is bolted on next, using the hardware provided. The driver side shield needed minor massaging for a proper fit, as shown at the top of the axle flange.
6. Grease is applied to the...
6. Grease is applied to the axle seal and bearing in preparation for the installation of the axle.
7. The axle is slid into place...
7. The axle is slid into place taking care to hold it up so as not to damage the seal or bearings. It must slide into the splined side gear of the carrier as well.
8. With the axle installed,...
8. With the axle installed, it is pushed in further to facilitate the installation of the C-clip. It is then pulled back slightly to lock the C-clip into place. The pinion shaft, which is installed next, will keep the axles from walking in and knocking out the C-clips. The lock bolt will keep the shaft in place. Here's the axle installed, awaiting the rotor.
9. The 10.5-inch slotted and...
9. The 10.5-inch slotted and vented rotor is installed over the wheel studs after being cleaned with brake cleaner to remove the protective packing coating. SSBC claims that the slotted CNC pattern, which is machined into the surface of the rotor offers reduced brake fade, better wet surface braking and greater pad life. A couple of lug nuts will be installed to hold the rotor in place.
10. Calipers featuring SSBC's...
10. Calipers featuring SSBC's quality stainless steel sleeve and piston are actually from a late '80s turbo T-Bird. The as delivered pads are semi-metallic.
11. The calipers are slid...
11. The calipers are slid over the rotor, aligned with the bolt holes on the bracket and torqued to 80-100 lbs.-ft. using the bolts supplied, which have Loctite already applied.
12. Banjo bolts hold the flexible...
12. Banjo bolts hold the flexible brake line to the caliper and supply the fluid through the metered hole in the hollow bolt. It is sealed to the caliper with a brass washer and torqued to 20-30 lbs.-ft.
13. Here is the completed...
13. Here is the completed assembly sans lines and bracketry for the emergency brake cables. We will tackle these subjects in the next installment.