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Stall TacticsCan the black Hawk hit the 11s with a Yank torque converter swap? From the January, 2009 issue of High Performance Pontiac
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In our last episode involving this brazen Bird, owner Melvin Benzaquen recorded 12.4 ETs at 112 mph with his Vortech-supercharged '99 Firehawk. And although he was elated with the Pontiac's newfound performance boost, he knew as well as we did that the stock torque converter's 1800-rpm stall speed wasn't getting the blower spinning fast enough during launch. We figured that there could be a good four-tenths and three mph left in this combination with the right converter, so we jumped into action with a phone call to Yank Performance Converters. Yank turbines are held in high esteem with the F-body crowd, and after a couple of conversations with company owner Mike Senia, we were confident that our performance goals could be met. Once the Pro Yank 4100 Extreme arrived at Classic Restorations in Sloatsburg, N.Y., we journeyed up to document the installation. Bolting up the Yank unit proved very straightforward, and we only encountered a few snags all day. It may surprise some of you to see us connecting a 4100-stall converter to a street car, but the Yank unit retains the lock-up function, which helps preserve streetability despite the increased stall. Now let's turn some wrenches. Melvin was chomping at the bit to test his newest modification, so we hit Englishtown Raceway Park just days after the last bolt was tightened. Benzaquen's initial test drive on stock radials revealed gut-wrenching power and the kind of wheelspin that keeps tire companies in business, so we were interested to see if his 315mm BF Goodrich drag radials could curb the new converter's appetite. His first run was made at almost 11 a.m. with the tires at 25 psi and the motor spinning at three grand. We can hear Yank's Mike Senia laughing somewhere. Halfway down the track, the tires finally hooked up and Melvin proceeded to a 13 flat at 115 mph! Already the Hawk had gained three mph over the stock converter. Initial butterflies out of the way, Melvin hot-lapped the Bird and left at 2500. The 60-foot time dropped from 2.31 to 2.14, and "12.58" flashed at the big end. Previous testing of the Vortech-powered LS1 showed that several laps in a row didn't really hurt the Pontiac's mph, so he came back around for a third run. Leaving at 2200 this time, Melvin eased into the throttle to plant the big BFGs and went faster yet with a 12.35. The 60-foot time continued to drop, with a 2.0 recorded on this run. Was he finished? No way. Pulling up to the line after a smoky burnout, he brought the revs to 2200 again and walked the car out. A stellar (on drag radials) 1.9 60-foot was the result, and he continued on to a 12.30. At this point, his mph had dropped to 113 and change, so we parked the 'Hawk and discussed strategy. We decided to drop the tire pressure to 20 psi for the remaining runs, and Melvin would ease into the throttle as much as possible to keep the big tires from spinning. Forty-nine minutes later, Benzaquen heated the BFGs and staged, the eerily quiet LS1 turning 2200 rpm. When the lights came down, the tires squawked as he nailed a 1.81 60-foot time. As the 4L60E changed gears, there was enough traction to keep the wheels from spinning, and the Hawk started to fly. I about dropped the camera when I saw "11.86" on the board--he didn't just go 11.8, did he? As Melvin parked the car, he was all smiles. It was just a matter of getting all of that power down, and that particular run was perfect. His trap speed of 116 marked a 4-mph improvement over the stock converter, and the car picked up almost six tenths, as well. Not bad for one day of labor! Undoutedly, slicks and a higher launch rpm would show further improvements but we don't want to grenade the stock rear just yet.--R.J. About Yank Performance Converters While considering options for this story, Melvin Benzaquen proposed, in no uncertain terms, a Yank torque converter. Visit any GM performance web site such as LS1.com and you will hear similar adulation toward Mike Senia and his Alma, Arkansas company. These transmission components have become the hot ticket for slushbox-equipped GM vehicles, and for good reason: Our 4100-stall Pro Yank Extreme converter (which lists for $995) came with six-bolt mounting lugs for improved durability, a lightweight billet cover, and a posi lock-up clutch with Kevlar linings. This last feature locks up the converter under torque loads of 475 lbs./ft. or more, a situation seen in nitrous- or blower-equipped motors. Obviously, this is a serious piece, and the fact that it is hand-built only adds to its appeal. Rarely do you see a company this serious about performance skipping steps, and Yank is no different. The folks at Yank took the time to develop individual converter profiles on actual General Motors dynamometers, fine-tuning each converter for its specific application. Then they created their own software to match converters to various vehicles. Many of the components used in Yank converters are of their own design, such as the billet pieces manufactured exclusively for them by an outside source. And they never build more than one converter at a time. "Instead of building a bunch of units at once, we devote our full attention to building each one as well as we can," Mike explains. "I liken it to blueprinting an engine. You aren't going to buy a race motor from K-Mart, are you?"--R.J. An Owner's View On Driveability As I watched my Firehawk being lowered on the lift after installing the Yank 4100 stall converter, I was filled with both anticipation and trepidation. All the research done in finding the right stall speed converter had led me to this point. Asking torque converter manufacturers, people in the hobby and at the track, and surfing the various message boards on the internet, I had learned how it works, the expected reduction in elapsed times and which torque converters performed and those that didn't. However, nowhere could I find any information on how the driveability of the car would be affected. Yes, I had heard the ramblings of various people about how bad the "big" converter drove. Had I ruined the driveability of my Firehawk? Was I going to have to rev the motor to 4000 rpm to get moving from a traffic light? These questions were about to be answered. I started the engine--everything seemed to be normal. As I put the shifter into drive, I noticed there was no longer the familiar "lurch" that I had become accustomed to. I gave it some gas and felt movement around 1500 rpm. As the Hawk gained speed, the transmission would upshift in the 2500 rpm range at light throttle but felt markedly slushy. Gone were the positive upshifts that had been achieved at the dealer during the unforseen overhaul of the transmission earlier last year. They were replaced with a sensation that I can describe as a slipping transmission. Upon applying a little more throttle to raise the engine speed above 3000 rpm, the F-body came alive. Once I was up to 45 mph, the transmission shifted into overdrive and I was rewarded with the instantaneous feel of a positive engagement. Once lockup is achieved, one would never know that there was a high stall speed converter lurking beneath. It takes some getting used to when driving around local streets at low speeds but I have found that applying an approximate 30% throttle seems to reduce some of the slushy feeling as the transmission shifts up through its gears. Initially I found myself anticipating reaching 45 mph plus to get into overdrive. After driving several hundred miles with the new converter, I find myself getting used to it. Would it act the same at the track? Lining up in the burnout box, I put the shifter into first gear and gave it throttle. Once into the 3000 rpm range, I was able to do a good smokey burnout. I proceeded to the starting line and power braked to 3000 rpm as that is all the car would hold. The original converter would only allow 1800 rpm. On the last yellow light, I stabbed the throttle and felt the drag radials howl in protest as I spun halfway down the track. Obviously, there was a huge difference in how this Pontiac was to be launched. Once above 3000 rpm, the Hawk felt more powerful than it ever did before. A trip to the speed shop for slicks and a stronger rear axle setup are definitely going to be needed! Is the reduced driveability worth the tradeoff for significantly reduced elapsed times and higher trap speeds? This Hawk went from a best of 12.46 at 112 mph with the Vortech setup alone to a best time of 11.86 at 115.99 mph with the Yank torque converter change. And this is in street trim. The answer for you is in how you intend to use your Pontiac. If it's a daily driver and a weekend racer, it would be a tough decision. In my case, the Hawk is mainly for weekend racing and some cruising, so it is a tradeoff that I can definitely live with!--Melvin Benzaquen  Our Pro Yank 4100 Extreme...  Our Pro Yank 4100 Extreme started life as a 3600-stall converter, but we requested a higher stall speed in our quest for low ETs. We knew that an increase in engine rpm and slightly higher trans temperatures were part of the package, but we hoped the performance difference would be a worthy tradeoff. We are also contemplating a rear change, which would include the use of a higher rear gear ratio and a set of slicks, and we don't want to change the converter twice.  Yank converters utilize six...  Yank converters utilize six mounting lugs, which distribute the load evenly and reduce distortion under race conditions. Factoryconverters use three.  Our blown Firehawk was raised...  Our blown Firehawk was raised up in preparation for the converter swap. The battery was disconnected to avoid any shocking surprises.  Master mechanic Papo Consepcion...  Master mechanic Papo Consepcion positions the jack before teardown. If the LS1 is allowed to drop half an inch when the engine and trans are unbolted, it will break the oil pressure sending unit--not a good way to start a project.  Papo uses an 18mm socket to...  Papo uses an 18mm socket to disconnect the transmission mount bolt. He then removes the four bolts holding the crossmember with a 15mm socket.  The two plastic oxygen sensor...  The two plastic oxygen sensor harness clips that attach the harness to the frame are pulled out with aid from a pry bar.  A metal clip holding the shifter...  A metal clip holding the shifter cable comes off, the shifter bolt is removed with a 15mm socket, and the bracket for the shift cablefollows.  We're ready for the tranny...  We're ready for the tranny pan to come off. Papo removes the 13mm headed bolts and lets the pan drain before removing itcompletely.  Unhooked next is the transmission...  Unhooked next is the transmission oil sending unit, as are the 1-2 and 2-3 shift control solenoid connectors.  The trans pan is replaced...  The trans pan is replaced to keep the still-dripping fluid from making a mess.  U-joints are then disconnected,...  U-joints are then disconnected, and the aluminum driveshaft is slid straight out the back. It will take a little finessing to clear the exhaust system.  Two long bolts from the front...  Two long bolts from the front torque arm support are removed while the tranny is still attached. Once it is disconnected and lowered to the floor, we will be able to remove the final long bolt, as the transmission tunnel is too narrow to pull it out now. The exhaust pipe bracket is unbolted next.  Papo verifies that everything...  Papo verifies that everything is unhooked before removing five of the six trans bolts that hold it to the engine.  The starter is unbolted and...  The starter is unbolted and removed, and Papo spins the flywheel with a pry bar to get access to each of the three converter bolts. He then removes them.  Next, thetransmissiontemperature...  Next, thetransmissiontemperature wire is disconnected, and our transmission's oil dipstick and tube are removed.  Papo had to disconnect the...  Papo had to disconnect the rear oxygen sensors so he could move the harness out of the way to gain access to the last transmission bolt,located on the very top of the tranny.  One slightly disgruntled master...  One slightly disgruntled master mechanic after a lengthy battle to remove the top trans bolt. Papo utilized two swivels, ratchet extensions totaling three feet or more, and several unprintable words to remove the offending bolt.  The two transmission cooler...  The two transmission cooler lines had to be unhooked before the trans could come down. Papo used a screwdriver to remove the retaining clips, then pried the lines loose. He zip-tied them out of the way so they wouldn't be damaged when the trans dropped. Once the main transmission harness and kickdown connectors were unhooked, he slowly lowered the trans.  Our 4L60E with the factory...  Our 4L60E with the factory torque converter. The trans has proven to be plenty tough, but the sub-2000 stall built into the torque converter had to go.  The stock GMflywheel prior...  The stock GMflywheel prior to modification. The Yank converter requires drilling three more holes in the flexplate where circular indents can be seen. Note that one of the three factory holes is oblong.  Francisco Alcantara handled...  Francisco Alcantara handled the drilling duties. Since the GM flexplate has pre-existing machine work, Alcantarastarted the new holes dead center and changed drill bits until the hole was the proper size.  Papo checked the bolt hole...  Papo checked the bolt hole alignment and found that the holes lined up perfectly.  He then bolted the modified...  He then bolted the modified flexplate back onto the engine with Loctite on the bolts. A flat file was used to de-burr the new holes to ensure the proper torque reading. The bolts were tightened in a criss-cross pattern to 15 then 30 then 74 lbs.-ft.  Grease was inserted into the...  Grease was inserted into the pilot hole in the crank that accepts the converter nose prior to installing the new converter.  A quart of Dexron III was...  A quart of Dexron III was poured into the converter before it was mated to the tranny. Never install a new converter dry, or its innards will get crispy in a hurry.  Papo turns the Yank unit onto...  Papo turns the Yank unit onto the transmission's input shaft until it seats.  The breather valve for the...  The breather valve for the transmission is reconnected, and Papo adjusts the height of the trans jack until the converter nose is mated to the crank's pilot hole though the flexplate.  Next, the torque arm bracket...  Next, the torque arm bracket is reinstalled, and then the arm itself is connected.  Six transmission to engine...  Six transmission to engine block bolts go back in torqued to 37 lbs.-ft., with the bastardized top one only putting up token resistance. Little did we know what we were in for next.  The idea of replacing the...  The idea of replacing the trans tube dipstick was a fairly straightforward one. Unfortunately, the trans was already bolted back up when we discovered that the tube couldn't be lifted up enough to slide into the grommet-sealed hole. Papo improvised by softly lifting the tube with two large pry bars while your author, hanging precariously from aladder, pulled up on the trans dipstick in the engine bay. Only our schedule was harmed, but next time we'll guide the tube in as the trans is being lifted up.  Pushed back into place were...  Pushed back into place were the Hawk's trans cooler lines, which were retained with wire clips. Papo delegated this task to Alcantara, whose hands were small enough to fit between the tranny and the Pontiac. For future reference, don't ever let go of an "Ojesus" clip in a tight spot like this--henceforth the name.  The driver's side oxygen sensor...  The driver's side oxygen sensor harness was reattached, as was the trans temperature wire.  At this point, Papo pulled...  At this point, Papo pulled the trans filter and replaced it. Melvin's Firehawk had warranty service performed less than 10,000 miles ago, so both the fluid and the filter were in great shape. Nevertheless, the fluid was changed as was the filter and we recommend that you change yours as well. The trans pan gasket, still like new, was reused. Aliberal coating of gum cutter was applied to ensure a smooth mating surface before reinstallation.  Now it was time to connect...  Now it was time to connect the Yank converter to the flexplate. Papo spun the flexplate through an access hole until he was able to reach each of the six bolt holes. After each bolt was installed with Loctite and snugged, he used the pry bar to move to the next one. After all were installed snug, the plate was again turned to gain them access to each bolt in order to torque to 43 lbs.-ft.  The crossmember was reinstalled,...  The crossmember was reinstalled, as was the starter, bellhousing shield, and the driveshaft, then the Hawk was lowered. Papo added trans fluid and verified the proper fluid level on the dipstick. After a few break-in miles and a check for leaks and other associated possible glitches, it was off to E-town to see if it was all worth it. (See the At The Track sidebar.)  Firehawk owner Melvin Benzaquen...  Firehawk owner Melvin Benzaquen launching hard on the BFG Drag Radials. Regardless of their enormous footprint, the DRs had a tough time hooking with the Hawk's newfound torque.  Exhibit A: Benzaquen's smoky...  Exhibit A: Benzaquen's smoky first run. He kept hoping that the drag radials would eventually hook. Somewhere after half-track, they finally did.  With lower tire pressure,...  With lower tire pressure, a cooled-down car, and a gentle launch, Benzaquen flew to an 11.86 at almost 116 mph! Shift points were 6200 rpm, vehicle weight was 3,590 lbs., and the weather report included temps in the mid 80s. Try as we would, this ET couldn't be bested.  The owner of the black Firehawk,...  The owner of the black Firehawk, Melvin Benzaquen. The Yank torque converter worked wonders, and he wouldn't stopsmiling all day.
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Classic Restorations
221 Spice
Lake Placid
FL
33852
800-225-7422
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YANK PERFORMANCE CONVERTERS
3702 N. Mtn. Grove Rd.
Alma,
A
72921
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