How to Buy a 1982-92 High Performance Firebird

Now that you've bought your Third-Gen Bird it's time to consider its future. Last issue we covered worthwhile suspension mods and now we will tackle mild engine and drivetrain upgrades. So hit the catalogs and begin removing and placing your OEM parts in storage. We are assuming that this vehicle will be your daily driver so the mods discussed here will be very basic in nature in order to maintain driveability and some semblance of a budget--no cam or head swaps and no superchargers.

Engine Electrical
First is the factory PROM chip. Although it is more than adequate for a bone stock engine, it will cause driveability problems once you start performing modifications. The E-PROM, available from Performance Resource (performanceresource.com 201-343-0680) is still considered by many to be one of the best replacement PROMs on the market. Many who've installed one in a Third-Gen seem to have had few problems with the factory Engine Control Module (ECM) when performing further engine upgrades. Another great source for E-Proms is Hypertech (hypertechinc.com 901-382-8888).

Next are ignition coil, wires, cap and rotor. From what we've learned, a set of ACCEL (Mr. Gasket, mrgasket.com 216-688 8300) 8.8mm wires, greater voltage coil, along with a replacement distributor cap and rotor, in conjunction with (single electrode) Bosch Platinum plugs seem to work very well in terms of combustion efficiency and low emissions. Though MSD (msdignition.com 915-857-5200) and Mallory (see Mr. Gasket) offer a plethora of ignition pieces for these models.

Cooling
Cooling system woes are common on stock Third-Gens and overheating will cause premature engine wear and potential failure. The more enhancements the engine receives the more severe the problem becomes. Stock thermostats on Third-Gens run at 195 degrees Farenheit and switching to a 180- or 160-degree unit is an effective way of keeping things ticking along nicely (check local emissions laws). However, a 160-degree thermostat can result in overcooling and may confuse the stock PROM by keeping the coolant temperature too low and causing the ECM to remain in open loop thus a 180-degree unit is probably the best bet at least to start with.

Should you decide that an upgraded radiator is the only way to go, super cooling units can be had from Rodney Red (rodneyred.com 800-691-2667), BeCool (becool.com 800-691-2667), and Griffin (griffinrad.com 864-845-5000).

Induction
Not surprisingly, induction and exhaust upgrades should be next on your list. When it comes to the former, consider ditching the stock air filter for a more efficient high flowing piece. K&N (knfilters.com 800-858-3333) is still the brand of choice when it comes to replacement filters, though other companies like Holley (holley.com 800-HOLLEY-1 x8530) now offer them too.

Another good trick is removing the screens on your MAF sensor ('85-89), which works well to improve flow in conjunction with the hi-po filter.

Intake manifold runner upgrades will not be needed until more serious mods are performed like a cam swap, etc., therefore they are beyond the scope of this article.

Supplement for Carbureted Engines
Although by this stage, most of the focus on Third-Gen Firebirds surrounds TPI models, there are still many carbureted cars out there. If you own such a Pontiac, most of the upgrades we've mentioned above still apply save the air cleaner, carburetor and intake. Third-Gens came with both single and dual-snorkel air cleaner assemblies, and replacing the stock filter with a free flowing one like a K&N or ACCEL piece should be first on your list.

Whether your engine is an LG4 or L69 mill, both came with electronically controlled Rochester Quadrajets. These engines can be tuned to produce more power than their TPI counterparts, but don't do as well in terms of torque. One of the most effective mods on a Q-jet is to recalibrate the secondary metering system (often enough) or by dropping in a pair of thinner metering rods in the secondaries (AH rods work quite well). We don't recommend a carb swap to another style or brand because there are many other considerations when doing this, not the least of which is emissions.

The intake however is another source for some cheap horsepower via a swap. LG4s came with a heavy (and restrictive) cast iron intake, whilst the later L69 featured a lower profile aluminum piece amongst its improvements. The L69 manifold, available through the GM Parts catalog for a number of years is a direct bolt in replacement for the cast-iron unit on LG4s. But if you're looking towards the aftermarket, Edlebrock, Weiand and Holley offer suitable replacements for these 305s. Do bear in mind that the '86 and earlier 305s require slightly different intakes than the '87 models, which feature centerbolt heads, so it pays to do a bit of homework before performing the swap.

Exhaust
Regarding expulsion, when GM redesigned the F-car for 1982, they paid a great deal of attention to the suspension and chassis. Unfortunately, as the Pontiac was conceived during the darkest days of domestic performance, components like the exhaust system took a back seat. Most stock Third-Gens feature heavy cast-iron (and restrictive) manifolds mated to a Y-pipe and collector linked to a 2 1/4-inch diameter pipe (incorporating a single catalytic converter), which then snakes its way from right to left across the floorpans and then over the rear suspension, before reaching a single transverse muffler and dual tips. As you can see, it's not the most efficient way of scavenging; thus installing a good exhaust system will pay big dividends.

From 1989 GM offered a dual cat setup (code G92 and good for an extra 5 hp), however, aft of the converters, it's routed back into a single 3-inch pipe leading to the muffler. When it comes to Third-Gen exhausts, you can go one of several different ways.

Companies like Dynomax (dynomax.com 734-384-7806) and SLP (slponline.com 732-349-2109) offer complete systems for these cars, however most owners seem to prefer the mix and match philosophy installing headers, high flow Y-pipes and cats, or muffler and tailpipe assemblies either separately or all together from various manufacturers. Just be aware of the warranty risks and fitment problems that may be involved.

Ditch those heavy manifolds and replace 'em with headers--shorties are the way to go and one of the most effective ways of really exploiting all that wonderful torque particularly on TPI cars. Though they are a major investment (around $800) and as there are many companies selling different types of headers in various sizes, you really need to do your homework in order to decide what will work best for your particular model.

Results of a survey HPP conducted with Third-Gen owners indicated that Hooker, available through Holley (ilovemyhookerheaders.com 800-HOLLEY-1), was considered the manufacturer of choice when it came to headers. This veteran company makes excellent shorties for these cars which are available with or without smog gear plumbing for air tubes (the former is required for EFI and mandatory for street driven cars). The Hookers fit snuggly with few reports of leakage or blown gaskets. For long life, improved exhaust scavenging, and reducing heat, consider getting your headers ceramic coated inside and out before installing them. It will make a big difference down the road.

Like headers, a hi-flow converter will make a big difference in low end torque, while still keeping your T/A emissions friendly and you can even source these through vendors like Midas, your local muffler shop or Random Technology (www.randomtechnology.com 770-554-4242).

Regarding cat-backs, several companies offer them for Third-Gens, though most owners seem to settle on SLP, Magnaflow (magnaflow.com) and Borla (borla.com 877-462-6752) systems. To fully exploit the torquey characteristics of a hi-po Third-Gen V-8, you shouldn't consider anything less than a 3-inch diameter (and mandrel bent) system. Do be wary of some companies that claim they offer 3-inch setups but often they only measure about 2 3/4 inches across in certain areas. And when it comes to backpressure, that extra 1/4-inch can make all the difference (up to 20% increase in flow). Neither the Borla nor Magnaflow systems are particularly cheap but both are hewn from stainless steel and offer excellent warranties (one million mile and lifetime, respectively).

As for the argument regarding single versus "true duals" on the Third-Gen it is possible to install twin head pipes and mufflers and tail pipes but it's very difficult due to the location and design of the trans crossmember and the rear suspension. And while this setup could be effective in the reduction of backpressure, several single systems, even with single tailpipes, flow very efficiently for Third-Gen applications. Some flow more so than those with dual tips, though from an aesthetic point of view dual outlets arguably look best and seem to be preferential among '82-92 Firebird aficionados.

Transmission Upgrades
One thing to note with transmissions is that '87 and up automatics and '88 and up five-speeds are stronger and much improved. Though a tranny swap is really beyond the scope of this article, if you're approaching the 300hp mark it would be wise to consider going to something stronger.

Whether your Third-Gen has a stick or slush box, there are few notable improvements you can do in the transmission department. On manual trannys (mostly Borg Warner T-5s), first on your list should be an upgraded clutch because after a few burnouts the weak stocker will soon perish. Centerforce's dual-friction clutches (centerforce.com 928-771-8422) seem to be up to the job and offer a good and not overtly stiff pedal feel. Another upgrade item for a stick car should be the shifter. Even when these Pontiacs were new, many testers complained about the balky factory shifter mechanism and among enthusiasts, a Hurst Competition Plus replacement shifter (See Mr. Gasket) is a popular choice.

On the automatic side, Third-Gens came with either Turbo 200 three-speeders ('82-83) or 700-R4s ('84 and up). As mentioned, the latter was a huge improvement but even so, to maximize power and torque from your corporate small-block to the pavement, the tranny can benefit from a few additions. First on the list should be a replacement Governor from a Corvette to control shift points. Firmer shifting is usually next on the wish list and several companies offer components to help in this department. SLP engineering offers a recalibration kit for stock 700-R4s, which quickens the shifts. Level 10 (levelten.com 973-827-1000), B&M (bmracing.com 1-888-882-6422), and Trans Go (626-443-1079) offer shift kits for Third-Gen 700-R4s, though the latter in particular has carved out a niche. Instead of boosting line pressure like some kits (which actually causes heat build up in the tranny and premature wear on internals), Trans-Go's setup reroutes the fluid path in the valve body. Besides giving you firmer shifts and the ability to hold the tranny in each gear, it reduces friction and wear on your clutches (a common problem on many GM slush boxes of this era).

Like their manual counterparts, no massaged auto transmission is complete without a shifter. Two of the most popular choices for Third-Gens are the Hurst Dual Gate or B&M ratchet shifters. B&Ms are popular and a straight bolt-in on Third-Gen Camaros, but due to the Firebird's different center console design, you'll need to perform some alterations in order to provide enough clearance in the console before installing your shifter. Web site, Thirdgen.org, offers good advice for carrying out this procedure.

We are not touching upon rear gear swaps because it goes beyond the scope of the article. However, if you are planning on some serious horsepower in an earlier Third-Gen with the notoriously weak third member you may want to consider upgrading the entire assembly. A company like Currie Enterprises (currieenterprises.com 714-528-6957) can help in this area.

A Few Additional Tweaks
By this stage, we've performed quite a few carefully chosen modifications increasing the Pontiac's fun to drive factor without sacrificing anything in the way of streetability, safety or emissions requirements. Many owners however, like to perform a few more upgrades.

Two very popular tweaks on TPI cars are installing an air foil (make sure you clip it on properly) and rerouting the flow of coolant from beneath the throttle body (bypass). On stock TPIs the coolant passes through the engine below the throttle body, which heats it up to eliminate icing of the throttle plates in cold damp weather. The downside is that it also heats up the air coming through the intake. Installing an air foil will help the flow into the intake, while rerouting the coolant will increase the air's density as it enters the plenum.

Both Holley and SLP offer airfoils for TPI Third-Gens and combined with the coolant bypass will definitely make a difference during the hot, humid, summer months. Replacing the stock air box with a SLP Cold Air Kit is another popular mod. Alternatively some owners choose to fabricate their own. In either case you can free up several horsepower, but doing so will require relocating the MAF sensor (on '85-89 cars).

Next up is stock intake porting. By removing the intake and grinding out metal from the plenum (approximately 1/4 inch at the top and 2 inches at the bottom), will result in an increase of almost 100 cfm and a few ponies to boot. Another good idea at this point is to install an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Most stock GM TPI small-blocks of this era run between 36-47 psi through the lines and the closer to 50 psi the better. Installing an adjustable regulator enables you establish specific pressure settings and the greater the pressure the better the atomization of fuel. Though, if you apply too much above 54 psi it can cause problems with the stock ECM.

Some individuals will consider installing a bigger bore throttle body and higher flow injectors, but at this level of performance, the stock TB and 19 (305) or 22 (350) lb-hr injectors work fine. Though replacing them with higher rated injectors won't make much of a difference without addressing other elements, like the heads, cam, and intake, installing stock replacements because the originals are probably very old and worn will aid driveability immensely.

A couple of other things, which will help performance at this level, include installing underdrive pulleys (which reduce parasitic loss) and fitting an override switch for the dual electric fans. When it comes to pulleys, March (marchperf.com 734-729-9070) offers both two and three-piece sets, though for Third-Gens two-piece (crank and water pump) pulleys are preferred over three-piece (alternator, crank and water pump) as the slower turning speed can reduce voltage output from the alternator.

As for the electric fans, even though there are two of them under the hood of most Third-Gens they never run at the same time and many owners have found this a source of frustration, especially as they watch the dash temperature gauge progressively rise during summer traffic jams. The problem is that the secondary fan doesn't kick in until about 235 degrees. An effective solution is to override the stock fan operation by splicing relays and installing a fan override switch on the dash. This enables you to engage the secondary fan at any time, making things to stay fairly cool between the fenders. Even easier is to install and wire up the Hypertech switch that screws into the cylinder head and turns on the secondary fan automatically at 180-190 degrees and you don't even need to throw a switch.

Conclusion
After seven installments hopefully we have covered the Third-Gen F-Body in enough detail for you to make an informed purchase and to start improving upon OEM performance. Nevertheless, we still have some comments from current owners on the following pages who will share experiences with engine and drivetrain mods on their Pontiacs. Enjoy.

The author would like to extend a big thank you to Toronto F-body Motorsports, Heavy Metal F-bodies (Niagara Region) and Bill Danyluk for their help in preparing this article.

About Our Featured Third-Gens

Gary Whitby '92 GTA
Gary is new to our buyers guide and has a very special Third-Gen. The 31 year-old Whitby from the St. Catharines/Niagara Falls area is a founding member of the local Heavy Metal F-body club and has had an interest in Trans Ams forever. His ultra rare '92 GTA (1 of just 48 imported to Canada) was purchased about two years ago. "When I went to see it, I couldn't believe this Bird was a genuine GTA because they're so rare. So I took the VIN to the dealer in Niagara Falls where the Pontiac was sold new and they ran it through. Once all had been verified, I rushed back to the seller and bought it without hesitation. All the alterations I've performed definitely make my GTA more fun to drive. However, I make sure that every mod she gets can be converted back to factory and I've kept all the OEM parts."

Engine and Drivetrain Mods

Jason Dunn '88 GTA
Aside from the suspension mods that were discussed in the last issue, Jason's '88 350-powered GTA also received a fiberglass deck spoiler (the original was cracked) and fresh paint. Being a Van Nuys car, it was suffering from delamination! According to Jason, "Engine and drivetrain alterations have made a noticeable difference (and improvement) in the way the Pontiac drives and feels. Most of them were pretty straightforward and so far I've encountered few problems. The chip was one of the biggest mysteries to figure out but after talking with fellow Third-Gen fanatics the solution was simple and I was even able to custom program my replacement E-PROM myself! Even though I've done quite a few mods, due to my busy work schedule, I haven't had much time to take the Pontiac to the track. Though next year my GTA shall be hitting the local strips and road courses. I'm eager to see what times she'll do--I'm hoping she'll break into the 13s!"

Engine and Drivetrain Mods

Richard Palmer '91 Formula
Richard, as mentioned in the last issue has had a long association with Third-Gens, which began back in 1985 and this '91 Formula TPI 5-speed is his third. "When I bought my '91 it hadn't been driven in 3 years so I spent the next 6 months ironing out the bugs in the car from sitting unused for so long. I slowly replaced everything and by spring of 2002 the Pontiac was an excellent and reliable daily driver. If anything ever goes awry it is usually because I have been playing with it. About my upgrades, I am aiming for a naturally aspirated 1 hp per cube (or about 300 hp) out of the factory TPI (305). My Formula was dyno'd in August 2002 at 260 hp and 336 lbs torque and has run 14.65 in the 1/4 so far."

Engine and Drivetrain Mods

Bill Danyluk '88 Formula
Bill recalled, "Last time out, my Formula ran a best of 13.94 sec at 99.32 mph in the 1/4 mile. Over the winter I added the ACCEL coil (had a 42,000 volt ACCEL previously)--gapped plugs from .035 to .054, SLP cold air box, MAF relocation sensor, and torque converter delay lockup unit. Then the problems began. The car gripped well last year through the 1/4 mile but because of the winter mods; tire traction was very poor. I added the BMR relocating brackets and ran 13.93 at 98.68 mph and still had a fair bit of tire slippage but traction is much better now with the brackets installed. I plan on upgrading my tires to Firehawks and these should be much better with anticipated better times at the track. When I'm at the races, the spare tire stays in the hatch! So far I've managed to do the following:"

Engine and Drivetrain Mods