What do you do when you realize that your auction/eBay/car lot-bought Pontiac is much less restored than you first thought? * Part I: Engine compartment aid
By Quint Stires, Thomas A. DeMauro
It's amazing how many Pontiacs end up on classic car lots, auctions, and eBay demanding high prices. What's more amazing his how often they get that price.
A whole new class of cars has hit the market in the last few years with advent of online classifieds and auctions, and an increase in vintage musclecar interest. Some in the hobby call them "puppy-mill cars." This moniker refers to the way shops spit them out as if they were puppies in a litter. A puppy-mill car is one that is simply dolled up for a high resale with every possible corner cut to ensure profit.
They are attended to aesthetically to look perfect on Web sites and in photos. The bodies are always fairly straight with fresh paint. Usually piles of Bondo take the place of replacement sheetmetal, the paint is the cheapest type and the color may or may not be a Pontiac offering but it's close. Stainless and chrome are decent but aren't show stoppers.
Under the hood, everything is painted. It may not be correct but it looks clean. Any replacement items needed for proper operation of accessories will come from the least expensive auto parts store, not from a restoration house.
The interior will be "restored" with whatever is handy. Seats may be recovered with substandard materials and items that need replacing may come from a parts car and be simply painted to match. In some instances, door panels and seat patterns my not even be correct for the year of the Pontiac.
Most often, the engine and drivetrain internals get the least attention because the prospective buyer can't see inside them. If the engine is rebuilt it will be with the cheapest parts and least machining possible--only enough work to ward off taps, knocks, and smoke. Aside from that most anything goes. And the work will be left to an auto parts store or an engine remanufacture establishment not a noted engine builder.
As for the remainder of the drivetrain, the trans and rear will be untouched unless a major driveability or leakage problem that would be readily apparent to a prospective buyer is discovered. The suspension and brakes will get just enough attention to be operational but no special care or parts better than the corner auto parts store.
These Pontiacs haunt the used car lots and online classifieds and auctions just waiting to be scooped up by very special buyers. This buyer acts on pure emotion; he is generally new to the hobby but remembers these Pontiacs growing up and how he always wanted one. He now has plenty of money and having heard of GTOs selling for $45,000 and more from friends and by seeing major auctions on TV, he knows that restored models cost plenty. He probably drives a $35,000-$45,000 SUV daily so a toy for $25,000 is not a major hurdle. It's cheaper than his driver is and a lot less than those vintage Pontiacs on TV.
His impression of the vehicle that he is going to buy is that it's fully restored and is like new because to the untrained eye it appears to be just that--and besides, it says it right there in the ad. There is no thought as to whether or not it's a frame-off restoration or how much of the original parts were retained or how many NOS or repro parts were used or even if any "correct" parts were used. Little thought is expended on the quality of the labor as well.
Then there is the time factor, especially with auctions. The thought process goes something like this, "If I don't bid now, I may lose out on a great deal. The Pontiac looks perfectly restored, I can see that in the pictures." In his mind, there's no time to check with PHS, if he is even familiar with the service, or go to shows to learn what is correct and what is really worth $25,000 because he may miss out on the "deal." So he buys it.
Upon arrival our new member to the hobby is probably very happy with his purchase because it looks good. The neighbors are duly impressed and it's the talk of the cruise spot. Then he runs into someone at an event or a cruise who knows what is correct and what is not. Within a few minutes the bubble is burst and the Pontiac honeymoon is over. Our intrepid owner then goes to a restoration shop to fix the things that the fellow hobbyist or show judge pointed out. Then the can of worms opens as more and more incorrect parts and suspect workmanship is found when the Pontiac is torn down for examination. A happy ending is when the problems are corrected the owner is satisfied, and he didn't need a mortgage to do it. Other stories get worse as more bad things are discovered.
Contrary to the above, the owner of this '66 GTO went in with his eyes open and knew that some work had to be done. Though in the end it can certainly be argued that he paid more than he should have at $25,000 but for a further investment of $5,000 the result is a clean GTO with a Tri-Power and a 4-speed (which now has been PHS-verified). It will do well in local events and may place in national ones.
In Part I we will examine the engine compartment to illustrate a few examples of Pontiacs that are "restored to sell." We will point out what is obviously wrong and correct much but not all of it, as the owner's budget could only go so far. So bear in mind that there are some items that you may notice in the photos that we do not discuss since this is not a restoration guide that espouses every correct finish and inspection mark. Rather it's a basic tech story that points out certain aspects of this GTO that were incorrect aesthetically and mechanical aspects that needed immediate attention for proper operation. This, to better help you make an intelligent decision when buying yours. It's not fair to compare this GTO to a national points car because that would take much more investment but it will at least be a solid weekend warrior once done.
If you glean anything from these articles it's, "Buyer beware!" Before you buy your dream Pontiac, educate yourself. They may look great from 20 feet away but have a knowledgeable person come along to examine it. The investment to "fix" a Pontiac for which you already paid too much will be much greater than recognizing the problems before you buy. And using that knowledge to your advantage to force the price down or pass on the Pontiac entirely and look for a better candidate will put you cash and aggravation ahead.
Next time we will take a long look at the body and interior. Remember we were on a budget and the GTO will not get everything it needs to be a gold-standard Goat. But the overall results will be very pleasing so watch as our puppy-mill car with a few dollars becomes a beautiful '66 GTO worthy of any show or cruise.
 After sandblasting the exhaust manifolds we saw that someone had drilled a hole in this manifold to make it fit the application. This is not a GM-drilled hole and the surrounding area is so thin that with the heat cycles of the engine, it may indeed crack. |  The oil pan had made quite a few introductions with the pavement. Not only was the pan badly dented but also the plug had been stripped out and replaced with an oversized one. This is not the hot ticket for longevity so a new pan was installed. |  While replacing the oil pan we noticed that the lower dipstick tube was missing. Without the lower tube that attaches to the upper and then turns and extends through the windage tray, you will never get the proper measurement of the oil level. And the dipstick, when inserted, may interfere with the crank and/or rods and put metal shavings into the engine. |
 Further back on the block we noticed that a common bolt was used in place of the correct GM ball stud to attach the clutch linkage Z-bar. It's a great way to destroy the Z-bar not to mention ensuring clutch problems down the road so the correct ball stud was installed. |  The bellhousing must have seen some serious abuse as it was welded in a few places. Aside from missing the clutch rubber insulator cover, inside we found a burnt clutch disc, worn pressure plate, and a wasted pilot bushing and throw-out bearing. All were all replaced with new parts and the flywheel was resurfaced. The bellhousing was replaced as well. |  Surprise! The trans mount was completely oil soaked. This is another sure-fire way to end up with driveline problems so it too was replaced. |
 Back in the engine compartment you can see that the fenderwell is missing the splash shields that keep water from entering at the wheelwells. Also, simple bolts cover up the wire loom hold-down holes and the hold-downs are missing. |  The presence of another "Help" line ground strap, butchered wiring, black painted hood hinges, hood springs, master cylinder, cover and bracket are all evidence of a "restoration in a can" approach, which is typical when a Pontiac like this goes up for sale. Also, the horn relay is incorrect. |  Here is the upper A-frame as delivered. When we removed them, they were damaged so they were replaced. Notice the shock absorber grommets have been overtightened and all fasteners and washers are black, which is incorrect. |
 Here is the engine back in its rightful home with the correct valve covers installed as are the correct air cleaner elements and the bracket to hold the PCV hose. The incorrect carb studs remain and the carbs have not been replated due to budget constraints. |  We replaced the alternator with a Delco rebuilt and added the red cap, correct fasteners, and a GM fan belt. The negative battery cable got a star washer. The correctly plated valve cover bolts were on back order (we opted for the chrome replacements) and so was the second alternator bracket so it's not shown. |  Up front on the passenger side, we see the newly installed correct lower coolant hose and ground strap. The suspension finishes are natural steel (replicated with paint) for the stabilizer bar, 30 percent gloss on the frame and fenderwells and a fade from natural to black on the tie-rod end. |
 From the lower passenger side we see the correct iridite plating on the control arm washer and zinc on the nut. However, notice that the control arms are the '67 and later style with a stud and nut as opposed to the correct '66 replacement with a bolt--another concession made for budget reasons. The splash shield is also in place with the correct staples and the correct oil pressure sending unit is shown, as is the correct look filter. |  We could see the scar that the factory grease pencil left in the firewall and decided to duplicate the "217." The 2 is short for GTO and the 17 is for the hardtop. Our voltage regulator was re-painted to the original 60 percent gloss black and the firewall is 30 percent gloss black. |  A correctly iridite-plated master cylinder cap was installed as were correct zinc-plated shoulder nuts but the cylinder is still black (it should be cast gray and the brake line should be natural) and the hood hinges remain black (they should be zinc phosphate plated). Also the incorrect horn relay remains. The washer reservoir was replaced but it's still not correct. Notice however, the correct wire straps for the positive battery cable on the fenderwell. The washer hose is in the wrong place right now because the clip to hold it at the top of the cowl was on order when the photos were taken. |
 From this view you can see the correct heater and coolant hoses and assorted factory informational decals. It's not the original battery but at least it's a Delco battery. Proper spring ring cables are in place (but not the battery hold down) as is a correct radiator cap. A new engine wiring harness and the loom holder (which should be engine color) were added at the top of the valve cover. The second part of the throttle cable was left natural and the bracket was painted engine color. A Tri-Power yellow throttle return spring replaced the hardware store spring and 1-Q-66 dated plug wires were installed along with new fasteners. | | |