I have a street/strip '63 Catalina with a 389 and an automatic that is stock except for a Crane 068-grind cam and a 2x4 Edelbrock manifold with two stock AFBs. Out back, it has a 3.23 Safe-T-Track unit. For exhaust, I used stock duals, but I plan to install the SD exhaust from Ram Air Restorations. I would like to know what you recommend for heads. Tony Del Vecchio Via Internet
Your Catalina is one of the most popular Pontiacs ever built, and you're doing a lot of things right. To keep it a great street/strip car, Crane's blueprinted 068 cam is identical to the one used by PMD for many years and is the right choice for your car's weight, transmission, and gearing. The 3.23:1 ratio is ideal for how you are using your car.
The two stock AFBs are also a good choice. Like two Bonneville or GTO AFBs, these yield around 850 total cfm. Two 500-cfm carburetors would be too much for your combination. Testing on my '63 GP with two fours and 3.42:1 rear gears showed a significant torque loss with two 500 Carters after using two '63 GP original carburetors.
For the cylinder head selection, I'll assume you have a 389 from 1963 since you didn't mention the year. If it's a '65 or '66 389, use the '67-'70 large valve heads like the 670s, 16s, 62s, or 12s. If you have the '63 389 heads and intake, consider this: Continue to drive your car and buy a pair of No. 9770716 heads and have them prepared by a machine shop. The 716 heads came on the '63-'64 421s and '64 GTOs. These heads with date codes for 1963 are easy to find and reasonably priced. The 716 heads with date codes for 1964 are used on GTOs, and prices for the GTO and its parts are off the planet, so choose wisely.
I would have the heads prepared in the following way: Degrease (cook) and Magnaflux (crack check) them. If they pass the crack detection test, have them bead blasted. After that, port match them, meaning have all the port openings (intake) carbide-ground to the shape of the gasket to be used. Unify the port opening at the pushrod housing so all eight intake ports have the same cross-sectional area.
The intake ports should be swept with a carbide tool to remove any rust, baked on carbon, or cast-iron trailings. Severe core shift in the port should be adjusted. The 716 head flows (on average) 180-190 cfm on the intake side. Adjustments should be made in the valve pocket under the valve seat area and the short turn radius to improve flow to over 200 cfm. The actual cfm is not as important as maintaining or improving the velocity (speed) at which the mixture moves through the port. Most important is that the eight intake ports be close to each other in cfm and velocity. Maintain the original valve seat angles. Your machine shop should be able to hook you up with one-piece stainless steel valves.
Now for the press-in studs. Have the studs pulled out and then mill the stud bosses. Next, drill and tap for installation of 11/42x13 base screw-in studs. We use the ARP PN 290-7201 studs. The stud's 11/42x13 end will have to be shortened. Your machine shop can do the work. But all this milling, drilling, and tapping must be done on a Bridgeport machine-don't try this at home. The length of this stud is good on the rocker arm side.
Now for something very cool. If you use Crane Gold or Crower full roller rocker arms-and you should-with their companion posi locks, your original '63 valve covers will fit. I suggest Fel-Pro PN 1627 gaskets. Also, order a 1.65 ratio rocker to increase the valve lift to about 0.450. Paint the new heads and swap them on a weekend. You should have the intake manifold port matched also. A definite increase in power will be felt in the mid to upper range (3,500 to 5,500 rpm) with no loss of low rpm power. The SD manifolds will also add power. Limit your exhaust size to 211/44 inches in diameter to maintain low-end torque.
I'm restoring my '74 SD T/A and am having trouble finding the correct paint for the trunk. I bought some from Classic and Eastwood, but the texture isn't right.
Also, where can I find a replacement certification sticker with the VIN for the driver's door? This car has been apart for 18 years and I want it to be right when it hits the road again. Matt Via Internet
We have used Eastwood's spatter paint with good results in the past. Unless its formulation has changed within the past few years, it closely matches what was originally applied in the trunk of our '76 Trans Am. In fact, much of the original coat remains, and it is difficult to differentiate Eastwood's product from the original.
Seeking a professional opinion, we contacted Bob Chalek of Chalek's Auto Body in Bellevue, Nebraska, and asked if he might share his restoration experience. Chalek suggested applying a light covering of undercoating prior to the spatter paint. He reasoned that the undercoat gives a textured appearance and provides a dark base, reducing the amount of spatter paint required for full coverage. He also suggested that since the spatter paint is water-based, a clear top-coat would prevent any smearing or discoloration should it come in contact with water.
A point to remember about the spatter paint available today is that we are trying to replicate with a spray can what was originally applied with a high-volume paint gun. The pattern and size of the aqua-colored matter is slightly different because of it. But we have also seen restorations where applications were too heavy, greatly affecting the appearance. Whether you choose to apply an undercoat base or not, it should take about two cans of color and one can of clear to fully cover your Firebird's trunk.
Regarding the conformance label located on the driver's door, we know of only one source currently producing a close reproduction. Unable to find a suitable replacement for his project, Don Chapman has created both the blue label used from 1970 to 1974 and the white/gray label used from 1975 forward. He is offering them to other hobbyists and has the ability to insert your Firebird's VIN and build-date using an original-appearing font. Cost for either is around $25. You can contact Chapman via e-mail at dchapma1@rochester.rr.com for further details.