5) If the problem is a whine that varies with engine rpm and increases when the lights are turned on, the cause is the alternator. To pinpoint the problem, shut off the engine and then disconnect the alternator wires. Tape over the bare ends. Restart the engine. If the noise goes away, the alternator may be defective. Sometimes a static-producing alternator can be quieted with a radio noise-suppressor capacitor attached to the alternator output wire. The same is true for windshield-wiper motors. These are available at many automotive stereo shops, electronics supply stores, and auto-parts stores. The alternator may be making noise because it has a defective rectifier bridge. This will cause the alternator to produce both alternating current (AC) and direct current (DC). With the engine running and all accessories turned on, use an accurate voltmeter on the AC scale to check the alternator output terminal for the presence of alternating current. There should be no more than about 1.5 volts AC.
6) If all the testing does not seem to eliminate any one source, the radio could still be at fault. Try another source, such as running a separate test wire (with a fuse inline for safety) directly to the battery. If the antenna has been eliminated as a source of trouble and noise is still present with another battery power supply, the radio is faulty.
7) Sometimes, the stock coil wires are swapped for high-performance aftermarket variations. These high-voltage ignition components can be a source of static. Also check the spark plugs for cracks or broken insulators.
I realize this is a long-winded answer, but without knowing all the parameters as to when the static appears, I tried to cover all the bases. Hopefully this makes your CE a static-free drive! Good luck, and please let us know what you find.
GTP ValvespringsI'm currently in the process of selecting components to complement an upcoming cam install on my '01 Grand Prix GTP. I was wondering which valvesprings you would recommend for the X-P Hot Cam? Some people have told me I could run the LS6 springs, while others swear by the Comp Cams 26918 105-pound springs. Also, which retainers do you recommend, steel or titanium?Jim GordonVia Internet
Chris White Responds:I recommend the 105-pound Comp springs when used with my cam, simply for the added insurance of a little more seat pressure since the X-P cam will pull well beyond 6,000 rpm. When it comes to retainers, you can use whichever you choose, as they will both work fine. But if you have the extra money to spend on the Titanium retainers, those would be a good choice for removing weight at the top of the valve. Good luck with your cam swap. You'll love the brutal torque and increase in top-end power.