Early Pontiac A-, B- and F-bodies have a lot going for them-great looks, powerful engines, and instant street credibility, especially for the performance versions of each series. The only real drawback is that they don't really drive like new cars. By modern standards, the handling is only so-so, and the brakes are several feet short of spectacular. True, the addition of disc brakes in 1967 did help quite a bit, but they still are not up to what one would find in a base-engined minivan. They certainly aren't adequate if even modest gains in horsepower are achieved.
Bringing performance up to modern standards is pretty much the whole idea behind the Pro Touring/G-Machine movement. Making an early GTO accelerate like a new one is not difficult-several are already there in stock form. Getting one to handle and stop like a new one, well that's a little more of a challenge-one that many are taking up and finding worth the effort. Sometimes, effective upgrades for earlier cars can come from inexpensive factory components. Whether you're building a corner-carving GTO or just want something that will stop shorter than your current disc/drum setup, we have a solution that will cost less than $500 total. You'll also be able to run a factory-style, 15-inch wheel on your car, though a 14-incher will not quite clear the caliper. Also, keep in mind that with this swap the rear track will increase approximately 11/44 inch on each side, so check your tire clearance.
Canadian GTO fan Imran Chaudary, president of the Classic GTO Club of Ontario, has developed an affordable and relatively simple rear disc brake conversion for '60s- and '70s-era GM cars that uses parts originally designed for '98-'02 two-wheel-drive compact GM pickups (Chevy S-10/GMC S-15) and SUVs (Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy and Envoy). The system works fo 8.2- and 8.5-inch 10-bolt and GM 12-bolt rearends. Imran has this system in his street-driven 11-second '69 GTO (a former HPP Shootout participant) and has racked up four years of trouble-free performance. Keep in mind that even though these are considered "compact" trucks, they can easily tip the scales at over 4,500 pounds, so it's not like these brake systems will be overtaxed with even the weight of a late-'60s Bonneville.
This setup is also going into club treasurer Andy Pooni's Pro Touring '65 GTO. Other club members have used this combo for their own cars and have recorded similar results. Best of all, the conversion won't break the bank and is fairly simple to accomplish.
"It's really amazing how well these new parts go together with the older rearends," Pooni says. "I guess that when it comes to pieces like rearends and axles, there is a lot of carryover from year to year and even generation to generation. When you have the critical dimensions laid out and tooling to pay for, it doesn't make sense for GM to change things if they don't have to."
When you realize that the S-10s were designed to use the same front suspension pieces as the Chevy Caprice, and the Caprice is an outgrowth of the '73-'77 A- and G-bodies, which were closely related to the '64-'72 A- and G-body platforms, you begin to see how that these seemingly unrelated vehicles actually share some vital DNA.
For this particular setup, most of the componentry can be purchased at any late-model salvage yard. The parts that Chaudary or Pooni purchased new were the wear items in the system-rotors, calipers, hoses, brake pads and the dust shields, which were available from their local dealer.
When searching through your favorite salvage yard, look for two-wheel-drive S-based compact pickup trucks and SUVs between the years of 1998 and 2001. Rear disc brakes were available on some as an option and as standard equipment on higher-end vehicles. "When Andy and I searched our yard, we removed parts for his '65 GTO from a '98 Envoy, and I removed mine from a '99 Jimmy SUV," Chaudary says. "The yard had already taken off the rotors and calipers."
Once you've found the appropriate donor vehicle, the first thing is to remove the rear axle cover to drain the fluid, as you need to slide out the axles. Keep in mind that these rearends have C-clips, so you must remove the small bolt holding the axle pin. Once the pin is out, rotate the carrier until you can get at the C-clips. Push the axles in to remove the C-clips.