EPC Accusump And Remote Oil Filter Installation - Maximum Lubrication Equation

The 1/2-inch 308 stainless-steel braided hose is rated for pressures up to 1,000 psi and has a temperature range of -40 to 350-degrees F. To begin assembling the AN fittings, the fitting threads onto the hose until fully seated.

A light film of oil on the male end of the fitting makes it easier to start the end into the hose. Once it was pushed in about 3/8 inch, the threads were engaged, and the two pieces are tightened until they butt into each other.

When using a vise to hold any of the aluminum or brass components, a set of aluminum jaw adapters were employed to prevent marring the finish. Aluminum wrenches specifically for AN fittings are available. A bit of tape on a standard wrench will prevent scratching.

A pair of aircraft cable cutters, available from most industrial/electrical supply houses for around $30, made easy work of the braided oil lines. The area around the cut was taped off to prevent the braided covering from crushing out and leaving frayed edges. A Dremel or air-powered cut-off wheel can be used to cut through the braiding, then the cut can be finished with a pair of scissor-style hose cutters.

Here are the hose assemblies that run between the remote filter and remote adapter mount. The upper assembly, which required a 131/4-inch length of hose, goes from the oil-outlet side of the remote-filter adapter to the bottom of the filter. The lower assembly runs up from the oil-input side to the T-fitting, then into the check valve and up to the remote filter. It required a 41/2-inch and a 41/4-inch section of hose. The final hose section that connects from the open 90-degree fitting on the T to the Accusump required an 81/4-inch piece of hose.

To assemble the EPC valve, the pressure switch fitting and an -10AN / 1/2-inch NPT adapter (left) were threaded together in a vise. This assembly was threaded into the pressure valve and tightened so that the opening in the top of the switch fitting was in line with the top of the valve. It may require several tries with varying amounts of Teflon tape. The assembly was threaded into the Accusump using only the hex-ends on the valve with a wrench to tighten it. (Do not use the solenoid for leverage!) Aligning the top of the valve with the pressure gauge on the Accusump may require a few tries with the Teflon tape.

The side of the inner fender seemed the most logical place to mount the Accusump. It's recommended that the oil side be mounted slightly higher than the air side to bleed off any trapped air in the system during pre-oiling. The brackets must align level with each other to prevent undue stress on the Accusump unit and must be placed at the ends of the tube to prevent pinching it. Since the inner fender is curved, a straight edge was laid across the clamp brackets, and they were tweaked until the straight edge sat flat on the sides and center of both brackets. By the time you read this, Canton will have optional billet mounting clamps available.

In addition to the filter mount, the extra hose length acts essentially as a preload, allowing for the movement of the engine and preventing pull on the hose connections.

Canton provides the wire, terminals, and toggle switch to wire the system. The black wire mounted in the valve's No 1. lug-style terminal runs directly to ground. The red wire runs from the valve's No. 2 terminal to the pressure-switch Common terminal. It picks up the circuit again at the Normally Closed terminal on the pressure switch; then routes to the toggle switch in the car. The wiring to the toggle switch is routed behind the remote filter, into the engine harness, and then through the firewall at the speedometer-cable grommet.

Here is the completed wiring. A section of loom or slip-over heat-shrink tubing can be used to clean up its appearance. An in-dash LED to indicate that the Accusump has discharged can be wired in series into the wiring run between the Normally Closed terminal and the No. 2 terminal on the valve.

A block-off plate for the radio opening was made, and the toggle switch was installed. Power is sourced from an ignition terminal on the fuse panel. This prevents accidental discharge while the car isn't running. The second switch is for reverse lights, and the Bird is a fender emblem.

The completed installation fits nicely in a non-AC car and doesn't hinder access to the sparkplugs and so on. Some mounting suggestions for limited space include the area ahead of the core support and under the front fender brace in the passenger front corner of the engine compartment if an alternate coolant overflow reservoir is devised.