Installing a functional Shaker scoop in your particular application will likely take a great deal of ingenuity. The carburetor's relation to the hood will determine how possible it is, and I'm certain that you'll have to fabricate some type of air cleaner base for the Shaker to rest on. It's definitely not impossible, but I think you'll find this portion of the swap most difficult.
Stop Oil Pan Leaks For GoodI want to start off by saying how much I love the magazine. It has a great variety of content, much of which I have used to my benefit. I have a question about oil pan gaskets that no one can seem to give me a definite answer to. I have an '80 T/A with a rebuilt 400 and mid 300s horsepower at the wheels.
My problem is that I cannot find a way to make my pan gasket stop leaking at the rear of the engine. The engine has been pulled out once already since rebuilding it and I have failed twice at getting a good seal. I have been using the 3-hole pan gasket type, and followed the directions exactly. From what I can see, it seems the rubber seal rings that go around the two rear bolts always squeeze out, even with minimal silicone and minimal torque on the bolts. Is the 5-hole gasket any better? I have been using conventional 10W-40 oil. Will better oil help? Any information you can give me would be greatly appreciated since this is becoming an annoyance and giving a very nicely restored car a very bad look. Please help.Joel BabineauVia internet
Jim Taylor responds:The 3- and 5-hole rubber pan seals from Pontiac were not good designs. When we did replace those types of gaskets back when the cars were relatively new, there were a few tricks we employed to get them to work. The 3-hole was a real pain. It seemed that no matter what adhesive you used, it would displace at torque.
One day, I heated up the pan with a propane torch then installed the rubber seal, basically vulcanizing it to the pan. I also used Permatex Ultra Black Gasket Maker (PN 82180). Even if you did "follow the directions exactly," it's still hit or miss because it's a bad design.
In the shop here, we can have no leaks, so we use the Canton stock replacement oil pan (PN 15-389) and convert the second design rear main cap like you have (no square groove) using the square cork seal. Since there is no square groove in your main cap, you must permanently affix the cork gasket to the smooth radius of your main cap.
Place the pan side gaskets on the block; hold them in place with 4-bolts on each side. The cut-outs at each end will show you where the cork is to be positioned on the main cap. Use two pieces of masking tape to hold the cork in place, set the pan on and see if the cork is in the middle of the pan lip. This is a good time to see if the cork needs to be trimmed with an Exacto knife for thickness to match the radius of the oil pan. The ends always need to be trimmed. If you don't, as the pan is torqued down, the ends can displace under the pan and hold it up from seating.
After you're sure of the gasket fit, roll up the square cork very tightly and let it sit for a few hours. Clean the rear main cap gasket area 100 percent, using lacquer thinner as a final cleaner. Your cork, now uncoiled, will have a nice generous radius to it. Coat the downside with vinyl top glue (trim adhesive). Also brush some on the main cap at the location you determine it to be placed. It will need to be pushed down for about 10 minutes. Once the glue is cured, use either black or clear silicone adhesive to place a bead in front of and behind the cork. You can make it wide, but not as high as the cork. This must sit for 24 hours.
Before installing the pan, run a generous bead of silicone over the square cork. Torque the pan down evenly and use the reinforcing plates at the rear corners of the pan. This should do it.