Though it might not directly affect a Pontiac application, it's thought that there may also be some benefit when ceramic-coating intake manifolds that are in direct contact with the block. Those same thermal qualities might keep the intake charge cooler, which could equate to a slight power gain. But when dealing with a Pontiac intake manifold, ceramic coat is generally an aesthetic improvement.
There's one other possible aesthetic benefit that applies to Pontiac engines. Due to ceramic's excellent thermal qualities, coating the exhaust ports of a Pontiac cylinder head can possibly delay the discoloration that typically occurs when an owner applies engine color. If the engine is tuned properly, a ceramic basecoat might completely prevent that discoloring.
HPP: Can you share some general pricing for ceramic-coating common components?
JT: Ceramic-coating a pair of full-length four-tube headers in any color starts at $215, and shorty-type headers and cast-iron exhaust manifolds start at $125 per pair, or $65 each. We charge $145 to ceramic-coat a Pontiac intake manifold, while smaller parts usually start in the $15 to $25 range. We also offer a limited warranty against defects on all our finishes.
Black ceramic is a popular choice when coating such items as a turbocharger housing.
HPP: What are your thoughts on header wrap or ceramic-type spray paints?
JT: Header wrap is marketed as a thermal insulator, but I feel it's a $30 fix hobbyists use when trying to hide rusty headers. The wrap not only tends to seal in moisture, allowing rust to form on the tubes-which can quickly ruin a pair of otherwise good headers-but it also forces the header to absorb exhaust heat. I believe this can cause premature failure from metal fatigue, even with stainless steel where rusting isn't an issue.
There are also products on the market in rattle cans that are said to contain ceramic, but they're not designed for lasting results. I feel they're marginally better than typical spray paint, and when we coat a component that was once painted with such a product, we simply bake the piece at 500 degrees F and the existing finish literally flakes off.
HPP: Is ceramic-coating something hobbyists can perform at home?
JT: While some hobbyists have ceramic-coated pieces with good results at home, it's really not practical for most. Not only is a large amount of specialized equipment required, but the process is quite involved and each step must be precisely followed to achieve best results.
After an initial baking cycle, Trail begins the process by media-blasting each header with aluminum oxide. Gloves are used when handling the bare metal to prevent any contamination.
It's taken me years to perfect the application and curing techniques of the various colors, and I would estimate that it'd take nearly $50,000 to purchase the required equipment to even get started. All things considered, not only is ceramic-coating impractical for home hobbyists, it also explains why there are so few ceramic-coating businesses.
HPP: What are your thoughts on flat-tappet camshaft break-in and ceramic-coated exhaust components?
JT: Since black, gray, and white ceramics are designed to withstand extreme temperatures, and cast-iron exhaust manifolds in silver ceramic typically take too long to absorb enough exhaust heat to cause discoloration, the situation seems to exist only when dealing with silver ceramic-coated tubular headers.
Immediate startup and increased rpm are critical elements of the camshaft break-in process, and the distributor can unknowingly be installed retarded. Excessively retarded spark can create a condition where the exhaust charge is still burning as it exits the combustion chamber and enters the header. This can discolor the finish in as little as 15 to 30 seconds after initial startup. Once the aluminum discolors, the headers must be completely recoated, at the owner's expense.