Double Nuts Are Better
Do you want your stock front shocks to act somewhat like drag shocks? Screw a second nut to the top of each front shock until there's full thread contact on the shaft. Loosen the retaining nut at the rubber bushing until it contacts and locks against the nut you installed so that they can't loosen while racing. On launch, the front end will lift instantly to take up the slack on the shock shaft, and transfer weight much more quickly to improve traction instead of fighting the extension. This didn't work for a prominent F.A.S.T. racer because the shock to the chassis once the slack was taken up on the shock's shaft caused the rear tires to break loose. But remember, this type of racing requires a near-stock-size, bias-ply street tire.
Adjust Drum Brakes
Any reduction in rolling resistance will drop e.t.'s. Adjust the rear drum brakes for no drag, and disconnect the self adjusters until after the race. Otherwise, the first time you back up, the rear brakes will automatically adjust and probably add back the drag you just dialed out.
Worn Front Shocks
Worn front shocks can act like drag shocks because they have less resistance to compression and extension. Some racers drill them to release the oil that's inside. Be careful as there's something to be said for control as well. Street driving isn't recommended with worn or drilled shocks.
Spacer Cadet
Carb spacers are available in a variety of materials, such as aluminum, phenolic, composite plastic, and hardwood; and configurations of open, four-hole, and a combination of the two, to name a few. One benefit is insulating the carb from engine heat for a denser charge. The four-hole spacer can improve throttle response, move the power band lower in the rpm range, and compensate for too much carb, intake, or cam. Conversely, the open spacer provides a larger plenum area and has the opposite characteristics. The taller the spacer, the more pronounced the effect. Overall effectiveness of the spacer is dependant upon the combination. Prices vary widely and can go over $100 for high-tech models, although many basic ones can be had for $25-$35.
Fresh Lid
Don't care for stock? For Fourth-Gens, a hi-po airbox lid can replace the factory upper airbox assembly to increase airflow. For example, SLP's lid (www.slponline.com) sells for about $90.
Alignment
Precise and more aggressive alignment specs can completely change the feel of your Pontiac for the same price as a standard alignment set to factory specs. On a vintage Pontiac with rubber bushings, tell the shop you want 1/2-degree negative camber, as much positive caster as they can dial in, and 1/8-inch toe-in. You can decide whether or not you want them to compromise the settings a bit to account for road crown.
Special thanks to Jim Taylor, Rocky Rotella, and Randy Allen for their assistance with this article.
Get Metered Quick and easy...
Get Metered
Quick and easy low-buck trackside Q-jet tuning can be accomplished by changing to richer or leaner secondary metering rods. Just a single screw holds the rod hanger in place. Conversely, the top of the carb has to be removed to change primary jets-a much more involved process. An assortment of metering rods can be had through Jegs for $11.99 per pair. Fine-tuning can be done by changing secondary metering rod hangers as well, available from Jegs for $3.69.
Slick Fluids Synthetic oil...
Slick Fluids
Synthetic oil can reduce internal friction, and increase power and fuel mileage. Synthetic trans fluid and differential gear oil can also help. AmsOil (www.ams oil.com) charges between $8 and $12 per quart for a variety of these products. Note the oil shown is advertised as safe for flat-tappet cams as well, easing a real concern for all vintage Pontiac owners.
Advance Curve Kit If your...
Advance Curve Kit
If your Pontiac engine has been modified at all, chances are a custom timing curve will improve performance and driveability. You can send your distributor to a pro for a recurve, or use one of the readily available aftermarket kits (Mr. Gasket 928-G points-type from Summit Racing for $7.25) and do it at home. Install a new bronze bushing on the advance pin to limit total advance; then put in lighter springs to quicken the curve. (Installing weights with a different shape can change the shape of the curve.) Thirty-two degrees of timing, all in by 2,400-2,600 rpm, will be a good place to start for a pump-gas street engine with iron heads.
Carb-Elated Carb super-tuning...
Carb-Elated
Carb super-tuning kits like this one from Cliff's High Performance (www.cliffsqjet.com) are an affordable way to dial in a combination via custom carb work that goes beyond jets and metering rods. Q-jet kits include all parts to rebuild and custom calibrate the carb to your application. Pricing starts at $119. See the full install story, "Calibration Celebration," online at www.highperformancepontiac.com.
Throttle-Body Coolant Bypass...
Throttle-Body Coolant Bypass
A cooler charge means more power. One way to cool the charge on LS1 engines is by instal-ling a throttle-body coolant bypass kit. BMR (www.bmrfabrication.com) sells one for $19.95 that includes a billet-aluminum adapter, two rubber caps, and hoses to complete the job.
Frugal Filter Whether you...
Frugal Filter
Whether you have a '66 GTO or an '02 T/A, an aftermarket air filter can be a performance bargain at less than $80. The promise of better filtration with less restriction are the selling points. K&N (www.knfilter.com) units are made from cotton gauze, which makes them cleanable and reusable.
Po-Boy's Fourth- Gen Hi-Po...
Po-Boy's Fourth- Gen Hi-Po Air Lid
Get aftermarket lid performance with stock appearance for less than $40. Use Great Stuff expandable foam to fill in the air silencers. With a Plastifix kit, apply fiberglass matte over the air silencers, followed by the included resin to permanently block them. Use a grinder to remove the ribs under the lid that are in the flow path. Reinstall; go faster.
Low-Buck Suspension Sweet...
Low-Buck Suspension
Sweet Shocks
KYB gas shocks are affordable for vintage Pontiacs, at about $40 each. They provide a firmer ride and more precise handling than stock shocks. The anticavitation qualities that gas-filled shocks have over stock oil-filled shocks ensure more consistent performance.
Bigger, Better Bar Did you...
Bigger, Better Bar
Did you know that the baseball bat-sized, 1.25-inch Second-Gen T/A front swaybar is a bolt-in replacement for a '64-'72 A-body bar (0.93-inch, '64-'67; 1.00-inch, '68-'69; 1.125-inch, '70-'72)? The T/A bar will increase front roll stiffness significantly. We've seen them at swap meets for $25-$50.
Bushings If you want to improve...
Bushings
If you want to improve launch and handling, try urethane bushings. They're firmer than the stock rubber, reduce deflection at the control arms, and make sway bars respond more quickly. Prices are affordable, and they can be had in complete kits to replace all suspension bushings or separately for stabilizer bars, control arms, and so on. PST (www.p-s-t.com) offers Polygraphite bushings to thwart squeak.
Clamp Down On Wheelhop On...
Clamp Down On Wheelhop
On leaf-spring cars, the addition of clamps ahead of the rear wheels make the springs act like traction bars to thwart axle hop on launch, and the Pure Stock and Stock Appearing racers use them. (Mr. Gasket spring clamps are relatively inexpensive at $18 per kit from Jegs.)
Half In The Bag The direction...
Half In The Bag
The direction of drivetrain rotation promotes the tendency of the right rear wheel to rise on launch, thereby reducing traction. The low-buck way to combat this is to run an airbag in the right rear of coil spring cars. A set of airbags, such as these Coil-Rite units from Firestone (www.ride-rite.com), run about $99. You may not need the one for the left side.