Control Arm Bushing Swap - Get In Control

Without possessing the ability to prevent his or her Pontiac from aging, the most any hobbyist can strive for is maximum preservation. Even that, however, won't keep time from eventually taking its toll on certain components. We found that to be the case with our well-cared-for '72 Trans Am.

In the previous issue of HPP, we explained that our Firebird began transmitting abnormal noises from its frontend. Common sense told us that since we'd replaced all of the original suspension bushings except the control arms' in the past, it was time to perform that task, too. We then completely disassembled the frontend in preparation for installing an aftermarket urethane bushing kit.

In this conclusion of our two-part story, the new urethane bushings and stock-replacement ball joints are professionally installed into the control arms, and we completely reassemble the Firebird. Working at our leisure over several days, the entire process took a total of about two full days to complete in our home garage.

After a professional alignment, the effects of the bushing swap were immediately noticeable. Our T/A rides and handles at least as well as the day it rolled off the assembly line, and quite possibly better since we opted for urethane over rubber. A control-arm bushing swap may be something you want to consider for your Pontiac if its existing bushings are of unknown condition. It's a great way to restore and even improve your Pontiac's ride and handling ability at an affordable price!

We chose aftermarket urethane...        read full caption We chose aftermarket urethane suspension bushings over stock-replacement rubber units many times over the years when replacing the worn originals in our '72 Trans Am. This urethane control-arm bushing kit from Energy Suspension fits '70-'72 F-bodies (PN 3-3102). It retails for roughly $60 and is available from local parts stores or major mail-order suppliers.	A trip to our local parts...        read full caption A trip to our local parts store netted a set of stock-replacement upper and lower ball joints by Moog. PN K5208 fits upper control arms and retails for $30 each. PN K6415T fits lower control arms and retails for $33 each. While cheaper options may be available, Moog produces high-quality units that carry a lifetime warranty.
Like every rubber piece we...        read full caption Like every rubber piece we replaced throughout the years, our T/A's original jounce bumpers had seen better days. Performance Years in Hatfield, Pennsylvania, provided these stock replacements for $36. PN GFU142 fits the lower control arm and PN GFU143 is for the upper.		Brian Carson of Universal...        read full caption Brian Carson of Universal Steering in Omaha, Nebraska, removed the original rubber control arm bushings and installed the urethane replacements using a large hydraulic press. (If you are attempting this job at home, a local autoparts store can provide this service for you.--Ed.)
Copying an original Kent-Moore...        read full caption Copying an original Kent-Moore tool designed specifically for the task, Carson fashioned this spacer from steel pipe to keep the stamped-steel lower control arm from collapsing while pressing the bushing into place.	Here's an upper control arm...        read full caption Here's an upper control arm with a new bushing in place.	After removing the original...        read full caption After removing the original lower ball joint from its control arm, Carson uses a task-specific tool kit to install the Moog replacement.
The original lower control...        read full caption The original lower control arm pivot bolts showed significant wear from years of use. We checked several sources for generic replacements to no avail, so we contacted our local General Motors parts department, which revealed a few N.O.S. originals in the system locator. PN 9421430 retails for $10 each; we purchased four for our project.	The upper ball joint was originally...        read full caption The upper ball joint was originally secured to its control arm with rivets, but it can be difficult to locate a shop with the correct equipment to replicate an original appearance. After quartering the existing rivets with a cut-off wheel and chiseling the heads off to remove the originals, Carson secures the Moog replacement to the upper control arm with the supplied hardware, applying 9 ft-lb of torque. The new piece will be painted black to conceal its appearance.	With all parts accounted for,...        read full caption With all parts accounted for, we began the reinstallation process by positioning the lower control arm into the frame. Some persuasion with a rubber mallet was necessary.
Upper control arm installation...        read full caption Upper control arm installation followed. We ran into a snag when inserting the cross-shaft bolts into the framerail, however. The knurled portion of the cross-shaft bolt keeps it from spinning, but the original knurling wasn't up to the task, allowing the bolt to spin while installing the nut.	We installed a new control...        read full caption We installed a new control arm pivot bolt through the frame with its head toward the front of the car. Then we threaded the nuts on and tightened them using -inch wrenches. We'll apply final torque of 80 ft-lb with the vehicle at normal ride height.	We could've easily used a...        read full caption We could've easily used a -inch socket to prevent the cross-shaft bolt from spinning, but that would certainly present future issues when aligning the frontend at project's end. Since new cross-shaft bolts weren't readily available, we tack-welded the originals into place. (Those of you who are doing this project at home will have to either rent a welder or call in a favor from a friend who has one.--Ed.)