Either design can combat the wheelhop that results when the axle of a leaf-spring car "wraps," but it's a secondary function. A narrowed framerail kit is only necessary in either instance if the tires you wish to use are wider than the original wheelhousings will allow. So it's quite possible that you won't need to relocate your framerails, gas tank, or rear seat when installing either ladder bars or a four-link kit.
There are countless options available for your application, and I spoke with Dave at www.pro-touringf-body.com to get the specifics of those for your Pontiac. He tells me that while some ladder-bar and four-link kits on the market may claim that they require no framerail or floorpan modifications during installation, some mods are ultimately required to properly install either type into your Firebird to maximize the effort, and that's something he encourages.
In his experience, a four-link suspension becomes an option at the point when the rear leaf springs of a particular combination must be so stiff to control power that it begins to negatively affect ride comfort-and that's all personal preference. He also says a wide variety of leaf springs are available and that adjustable shock absorbers have given them new life. What was far too stiff a few years ago is made much more tolerable with modern shock-absorber technology.
When considering cost, a quality rear leaf-spring kit like that available from a company such as www.pro-touringf-body.com starts at under $400, and you can select from any number of shock-absorber options that provide excellent traction and tolerable ride quality. Upgrading to a ladder-bar or four-link kit will likely cost several hundred (and possibly a few thousand) dollars for the kit and labor to install it.
Whichever route you decide to go, be sure to consult with a professional chassis-builder. He'll discuss all possible options with you to get your chassis dialed in best.
How Do I Replace My
Windshield?
I'm currently working on a '68 LeMans and I'm replacing the front and rear windshields. Money is obviously an issue, so I would like to attempt this myself.
I am wondering if anyone can give me some advice on how to properly prep and install new windshields. I have read about different techniques, such as using one- or two-step epoxy primers to prep the channels and different types of adhesives, such as butyl tape or traditional black windshield adhesives. Any help or comments would be greatly appreciated. The front and rear channels are in good shape-no rust issues or deformations. Thanks!
Chris Bolton
Via Internet
Melvin Benzaquen responds:
Installing the front and rear glass on your LeMans requires a few steps in order to ensure a solid and leak-free result, and the installation of the front and rear glass is pretty much the same process.
Start with sanding or wire wheeling the glass channels (aka pinchwelds) until perfectly clean of any old sealant to provide a solid surface. If you run into any rust, you will need to deal with that before proceeding. Make sure the surface is completely flat.
Once you have the channels clean and ready, you will need to apply a black primer. For example, 3M makes a black primer under PN 08684 or 08686. Spray the channels and let them dry for at least five minutes with an ambient temperature of 70 degrees. Colder temperatures will require a longer cure time.
Take the glass and flip it over so the inside is facing up. Clean the glass with a good quality window cleaner and new towels. This step is important for two reasons. One is that it's easier to clean the hard-to-reach areas now. The other is that the urethane sealant needs an oil-free and clean surface for sticking. You don't want to find out your windshield isn't sticking or leaks just because it wasn't cleaned.