Installation
As with most suspension components, it is recommended that installation be done by a trained professional, which I am not. So Greg Lovell of AntiVenom in Seffner, Florida (no relation to Lovells suspension), was kind enough to come to the HPP shop and lend us a hand. Having him there to assist with the installation made things go smoother and, more importantly, safer.
Lovells and KW also recommend professional installation of its components, however, the upgrades in this story can be done by a mechanically inclined hobbyist. The only special tool needed is a press for the lower control arm bushings, and any auto parts store can press out the old ones and press in the new ones for a nominal fee. Read on to see what is involved.
As we began to slide the radius...
As we began to slide the radius rod out, we noticed the bushing was shot.
Next we removed the tie rod's...
Next we removed the tie rod's 15mm castellated nut. We separated the tie rod from the spindle with a stern hit from a hammer on the side of the latter. There is a tool to remove them, but they don't always fit perfectly. We've found that the hammer works every time and doesn't damage anything.
We got the rotor out of the...
We got the rotor out of the way, unbolted the swaybar from the endlink, and separated the ball joint from the spindle using a hammer (on the stud with the nut in place at the top to protect the threads), since the removal tool would not fit. Greg is using a 19mm socket on the impact and a 21mm wrench, as shown, to free the strut from the spindle and control arm. We then removed the control-arm fastener using a pair of 17mm wrenches.
We've removed the control...
We've removed the control arm, spindle, and radius rod, and detached the swaybar endlink from the bar. Note that we have the caliper tied to a secure point so it won't stress the brake hose. (You may also remove the bracket from the body for a little more "spring" in the line. It's held on by a 10mm bolt.)
Up top, Greg will use an impact...
Up top, Greg will use an impact gun to remove the 24mm nut that holds the strut in place, while I wait underneath the GTO to grab the strut assembly as it releases.
There is so little surface...
There is so little surface area on the front lower control arm to rest on the press without interfering with the bushing being pressed out that Greg had to peel back the control-arm-bushing retainer. He used a wide flat-head screwdriver and hammer to bend the metal jacket out.
We got the rotor out of the...
We got the rotor out of the way, unbolted the swaybar from the endlink, and separated the ball joint from the spindle using a hammer (on the stud with the nut in place at the top to protect the threads), since the removal tool would not fit. Greg is using a 19mm socket on the impact and a 21mm wrench, as shown, to free the strut from the spindle and control arm. We then removed the control-arm fastener using a pair of 17mm wrenches.
Up top, Greg will use an impact...
Up top, Greg will use an impact gun to remove the 24mm nut that holds the strut in place, while I wait underneath the GTO to grab the strut assembly as it releases.
There is so little surface...
There is so little surface area on the front lower control arm to rest on the press without interfering with the bushing being pressed out that Greg had to peel back the control-arm-bushing retainer. He used a wide flat-head screwdriver and hammer to bend the metal jacket out.