Before you install the Pitman...
Before you install the Pitman shaft in the housing, check the gap between the end of the lash adjuster and the channel on the top of the shaft. It must be 0.002-inch or less. If in excess of that spec, thicker shims are available to close the gap. Then remove the lash adjuster and shim.
With the ball nut centered,...
With the ball nut centered, insert the well-greased Pitman shaft into the case.
Place the lash-adjuster shim...
Place the lash-adjuster shim (upper left) on the lash adjuster once again.
Slide the head of the lash...
Slide the head of the lash adjuster into the channel on the head of the Pitman shaft. Apply sealant to the side cover gasket and thread the lash-adjuster stud through the side cover, turning counter-clockwise to draw it to the housing. Once seated, install and tighten the three bolts that hold the cover in place to 35 ft-lb, and loosely install the lash-adjuster locknut.
Before adjusting the lash,...
Before adjusting the lash, it's necessary to make sure the Pitman shaft is centered. The worm and sector gears are designed so that the gear interface is tightest when the car is traveling straight down the road. Lash should only be adjusted when the gears are in this "sweet spot." To find it, place a mark on one of the splines of the Pitman shaft. Then turn the wormshaft to right lock, and mark the housing adjacent to the mark on the spline. Now turn the wormshaft to left lock and mark the housing. Finally, turn the wormshaft until the mark on the spline is halfway between your right and left lock marks.
Turn the lash adjuster just...
Turn the lash adjuster just until all the lash is taken up, but don't go beyond that. You don't want to load the gears. Pick up that inch-pound torque wrench again. (According to the service manual, torque should not exceed 18 in-lb of drag when the worm gear is turned through the high point.) Simply screw the lash adjuster in or out until you dial it in. Once done, tighten the lash adjuster locknut while holding the adjuster in place with a screwdriver. Your steering box is now ready to be reinstalled. The mounting bolts to the frame need to be torqued to 70 ft-lb while the Pitman arm retaining nut requires a whopping 140 ft-lb of grunt. Torque the bolt-securing rag-joint coupling to the wormshaft to 30 ft-lb. Once the box is bolted back on the frame, add the gear lube/grease blend previously discussed via the bolt hole marked "Check Lube" on the side housing cover, just until it starts to flow out.
Conclusion
It's a good idea to recheck the fluid level and lash after the car has been driven a few hundred miles. Remember, the wheels have to be pointing straight ahead for the lash adjustment. If despite your best efforts, you find that there is binding at any point, it's best to take your car to a professional. Steering is serious business and you cannot take any chances.
Also, while power steering boxes share many design features, most notably the recirculating-ball-thread design, they are vastly different in many important respects and require special tools for calibration. Leave them to a properly equipped suspension shop.
Now, go enjoy the precise steering of your rebuilt box.
Tools & Supplies
Rebuild Kit: H1010
Wheel bearing grease
85W-140 gear lube
Gasket sealant
Flat-blade screwdriver
Box-end wrenches
Pitman arm puller
Bushing driver
Bearing puller
Torque wrench
Hack saw
Punch
Hammer
Needle-nose pliers
Vise