To ensure the sleeve is properly...
To ensure the sleeve is properly set into the stand, Steve tack welds the 11/2-inch-long collar on both sides. He completed the opposing side (shown) weld. Since this was the last of the tack welds, Steve let the metal cool, and then clamped the completed stand in the vise and continued welding around the remaining weight-bearing tubing. He put a total of two tack welds on each adjusting nut, while the sleeve received two longer tack welds on each side. He built the other side of the stand in a similar fashion. Since its cross-leg is a solid piece of 12-inch tubing (rather than two pieces of 51/2-inch tubing and the 1-inch width of the 71/2-inch adjustment/support leg), he completed the welding more quickly.
• Port your own set of cylinder heads. For owners of Pontiac D-port heads, pick up a copy of Jim Hand's book, How to Build Max-Performance Pontiac V-8s, and follow the directions on home-porting in Chapter 7 ("Porting Pontiac D-Port Heads"). Note the small shop-vacuum hose affixed to the back of the cylinder head to collect debris from the porting process (see upper-left photo). The heads that are displayed are an actual set of Jim Hand-ported "7K3" heads owned by Floyd Hand. The carbide bit attached to the die grinder shown in the intake port is for porting demonstration purposes only! Jim has a tutorial on building a Pontiac-specific headstand in the book, which is a different design than this one, yet is also easy to build.
• The head stand holds the head in place to use a valvespring compressor to pull the springs without having to balance the head and compress the springs at the same time. Pulling the valvesprings, retainers, keepers, and valves is very helpful to ascertain the condition of the valve job and the valve seals. For a hobbyist who is going to restore or port a set of heads bought at a swap meet, he would want to pull the springs and then deliver the bare heads to an automotive machine shop to be tanked to remove all accumulated dirt, oil, and varnish; then have them magnafluxed to check for cracks before proceeding. A racer can pull and test the valvesprings to ensure they still meet the manufacturer's rated open-and-closed pressures.
Tools
Welder
Bench vise
Drill press (or a heavy-duty hand drill)
Electric chop saw (or a hacksaw)
Grinding and filing tools
C-clamps
Supplies
6-foot, 14-gauge, 1-inch-square tubing (1.0 x 1.0 x 0.083)
2-foot, 16-gauge, 3/4-inch-square tubing (0.75 x 0.75 x 0.065)
1/8 and 3/8-inch drill bits
3/8-inch bolts and flanged nuts (3/8 x16)
9/16-inch wrench
Black spray paint (optional)
Grease and wax remover (optional)
Conclusion
For hobbyists who want to build their own stand, it should take approximately 4 to 5 hours or less with the proper tools. Although fancy shop equipment, such as chop saws and drill presses will speed up the build process, any form of cutting or drilling tool will get the job done. Just remember to measure twice and cut once. If you don't have welding capabilities, an oxygen propylene (propane) torch kit capable of welding can be purchased for around $70 at a local hardware store.
The most difficult part of the build is ensuring that the piece you are welding is "square" to the other piece of metal being welded. A set of squares and a friend to help you align and clamp down the pieces is very helpful. If you don't have all of the tools or assistance around the garage that you need to build a cylinder-head stand, a car club or group of hobbyists in your area can probably pool resources and build several stands in an afternoon.
According to David DuSold, "The beauty of the design is the ability to have the cylinder head rotated exactly where you need it to perform a service, and the multiple makes of head that it will [hold]. Since the cylinder-head stand can range in width from 15 to 34 inches and the vast majority of cylinder heads have "parallel" front and rear threaded accessory holes, the stand is capable of supporting short heads, such as a Turbo Buick V-6, through long heads, such as that from a straight-six engine. In addition to the adjustability, the head stand is very strong. Heavy cast-iron heads, such as the Pontiac or even heftier Ford 460, didn't cause the stand to distort or become unstable."