Floyd Hand is attaching the...
Floyd Hand is attaching the flexplate shield. Note the exhaust is exiting toward the rear of the stand in this instance. There are many choices for where the exhaust can exit to best suit your needs. For instance, if you are using stock manifolds, Ram Air manifolds (not long branch) or shorty headers, you can install them backward as is done on some dynos, so the exhaust can exit up front to the outside of the stand using some bent pipes to connect to the mufflers. Or if you prefer to have the exhaust exit at the back but want to spread the pipes off of the headers further apart, a combination of pre-bent flanged 45- or 90-degree pipes can be installed.
As we head down the backstretch on our engine break-in stand build, we know that all the hours of hard work to design and build it will soon be worth it, as we fire up and break in a Floyd Hand-built 462.
Why should you consider building or buying this stand? According to Steve DuSold of DuSold Enterprises, "In the restoration market today, it's common for shops to either suggest builders that have proven track records or to subcontract out engine builds per the customer's specifications.
"Nevertheless, even if an engine was professionally built and then broken in, unless it's installed relatively quickly, it will need to be serviced and potentially run on a dyno or an engine break-in stand again. This is because when an engine sits for a length of time, even if it is rotated over and primed on a regular basis, the seals may deteriorate and start to leak. Using this heavy-duty break-in stand, which is designed specifically for a classic Pontiac V-8, but can then be adapted to support multiple engine makes, gives our customers the piece of mind in knowing that their engine is running right before it's installed."
The engine break-in stand outlined here can be constructed for less money than a commercial stand and is heavier-duty. It can be built by you from scratch, using this three-part article as a guide, purchased in a weldable pre-cut kit from DuSold, or purchased already welded from DuSold. (See sidebar "Three Ways to Get It Built.")
Now, let's wrap up the build.
To accommodate a battery tray...
To accommodate a battery tray and a storage location for a gas can, we purchased a 4x8-foot sheet of 3/4-inch #9 expanded metal (Commercial Metals, PN 6004-0012, retail $35). It's constructed of 10-gauge steel, and in the event of a fuel spill or a leak from the battery the fluids will flow through the grate and not pool, providing more safety. The grate will be welded under the frame and Steve is trial-fitting the fuel section after cutting the pattern out and bending the metal into a tray for the gas can.
A battery tray is fashioned...
A battery tray is fashioned in the same manner, and then both pieces are clamped and welded. The battery tray will accommodate battery sizes, which have a maximum length of 10-inches. The limiting factor was determined by rotating the wheels as far inboard as possible and building the tray based on that.
Here is the diagram for the...
Here is the diagram for the fuel and battery tray measurements.
Floyd Hand's 462 was pulled...
Floyd Hand's 462 was pulled out of his '64 Grand Prix for a cosmetic restoration. Since it was sitting for a while, to ensure that it still operates and seals properly before being put back into the vehicle, it will be run on the stand.
After hoisting the engine...
After hoisting the engine up and bolting it to the stand, the author and Floyd Hand prepped, cleaned, and painted it. In addition, the break-in stand was wiped down to remove the oily residue from the metal and build process and sprayed with SEM Trim Black paint. Painting the stand wasn't done primarily to make it pretty but rather to cover the bare metal, especially where welding was completed to prevent surface rust from forming.
Two pieces of 6-inch-long...
Two pieces of 6-inch-long vinyl baseboard (Lowes, PN 124299, retail $2.60) were cut and then glued into each radiator channel with clear 3M General Trim Adhesive (PN 08088, retail $12.99). The vinyl will provide cushioning and protection for the bottom of the radiator.
A throttle assembly is optional....
A throttle assembly is optional. Here's how we built ours. For the bracket, a 7-inch-long piece of 2-inch flat stock (Commercial Metals, PN 6007-0017, 10-feet, retail $7.54) was cut and a hole large enough to fit a 3/8x1/2-inch bolt was drilled 1/2-inch down and over from the top-left corner.
A throttle handle was made...
A throttle handle was made from 1/16-inch aluminum sheet left over from the dashboard. The 8-inch-long piece was 1 1/2-inches wide and ground to taper to 1-inch wide at the top. It was bolted to the bracket for a test fitting. The throttle assembly was clamped onto the back edge of the upright and positioned to be approximately equal to the base of the intake and then a 4-foot section of 1/8-inch throttle wire (Northern Tool, PN 335814, quantity 4, retail $0.39 per foot) was attached to the carburetor via a crimp-on eye bolt and cotter pin. The wire was stretched back to the throttle handle and a 3/16-inch hole was drilled in the throttle handle so the cable would be near level.
Once the cable orientation...
Once the cable orientation was set, the bracket was marked (1 inch from end) and the throttle assembly was taken off. Two lines were then drawn 1/2-inch from the ends, and the holes were center marked approximately 1/2-inch in. A pilot hole was then drilled, and the #1 Unibit was used to create holes through which 1/4x1 1/2-inch bolts would fit. (Here you can see that the throttle handle was drilled for the 3/8-inch bolt and affixed on the inside of the bracket with a flat washer, a 3/4-inch-diameter x 1/2-inch-long coilspring, and another flat washer. The 3/8-inch bolt slipped through the bracket and was double nutted.)