Are you ready to put 3-inch...
Are you ready to put 3-inch exhaust on your classic GTO and reward yourself with better sound and performance? The author, shown here, found that it takes patience. Read on to learn how he did it.
Part of our performance-car obsession is the sensory input. For many of us, what gets our initial attention are the characteristic sounds of high performance engines, via their exhaust notes.
For any given displacement engine, higher power output means greater average cylinder pressure during the power (expansion) stroke. For a given compression ratio and exhaust valve timing, any increase in the average cylinder pressure will also lead to an increased cylinder pressure at the moment the exhaust valve opens. Opening the exhaust valve against the higher pressure results in a louder exhaust note. Thus, higher performance engines are typically louder.
There’s more to it, however. Higher performance engines usually alter the exhaust valve timing to open earlier during the last part of the power stroke. This creates a longer exhaust event, which aids in exhaust flow at higher rpm, thus producing more power. Opening the exhaust valve earlier results in even higher cylinder pressure being initially sent out the exhaust, again creating a louder exhaust note.
At the other end of the exhaust-valve timing, high performance engines typically delay the closing of the exhaust valve (while simultaneously getting a head start by opening the intake valve earlier). This results in a period when both valves are open at the same time, called overlap. If the exhaust system is restrictive, pressure will build up. The result is not only less efficient scavenging of the exhaust gases from the cylinder, but also the reversion of exhaust gases backing up into the cylinder during overlap, and if the restriction is really severe, exhaust gases backing up all the way into the intake ports. The end result, as you can imagine, is a poor running engine and loss of power.
Stock exhaust systems, which are designed to keep the noise low, can therefore be quite restrictive to exhaust flow, due to all the torturous paths they are designed to squeeze through in hopes of stripping off the pressure wave energy that results in noise. Low performance engines don’t have a great deal of valve overlap, so they can get away with a somewhat restrictive exhaust system. But with the increased overlap in our high performance engines, a restrictive exhaust system will quickly undo a bunch of effort at the engine end to make more power.
Pontiac engineers knew this and equipped high performance models with freer flowing dual exhaust, and in the case of H.O.’s, Ram Airs, and SDs, low-restriction manifolds. There was even a short-lived vacuum-operated muffler bypass system known as V.O.E.
Increased power output gained through larger displacement and/or more aggressive valve timing will be compromised with a restrictive stock exhaust system. Such was the case with our ’66 GTO in which we bumped up the engine displacement by more than a liter, replaced the bumpstick with a Melling Ram Air IV unit, and have future plans for large quantities of hidden nitrous. Thus we needed an exhaust system upgrade.
Our plan was to maximize the flow potential (and minimize any restriction which could create reversion problems with our additional valve overlap), while at the same time stay well within any old folk’s noise tolerance. We also didn’t want to go too big, since overkill on the exhaust system can reduce gas velocity, which will again reduce scavenging efficiency. Somewhere in between too big and too small is just right.
We started at the engine with a set of ceramic-coated, four-tube Doug’s headers, which then dump into a 3.00-inch, mandrel-bent dual exhaust system kit from Pypes. For a bit more power potential, and less low-end boom, we went with an X-type pipe option after the headers.
Our muffler selection was based on the extensive work by Jim and Tom Hand, who compared several mufflers for restriction, power output, and noise levels. We chose the 18-inch Goerlich Xlerators, since they represented a good compromise between noise level and performance potential.

We firmly believe you get...

We firmly believe you get what you pay for. After struggling with some el cheapo headers that wouldn’t fit without the assistance of a very large hammer and select curse words, we ponied up the dough for a set of shiny ceramic-coated Doug’s headers. We were very impressed with their quality construction.

This is not a header install...

This is not a header install story, since we did it during the body-off restoration. If you do the install at home, expect to put the car up high on proper jackstands, and you might have to lift the engine a bit to weasel both headers into place. We were happy to find the Doug’s fit perfectly, with no adjustments necessary…

…That doesn’t mean, however,...

…That doesn’t mean, however, that they didn’t create challenges for other nearby components. For instance, between the scattershield, engine, and headers, you can’t physically get a normal-sized oil filter out of there! While a remote-filter kit would solve the problem, we found a simpler solution by replacing our landlocked Fram filter (shown) with an ACDelco PF61 oil filter, which fits perfectly, but has a smaller diameter.

The next issue was header-to-starter...

The next issue was header-to-starter clearance. While we originally tried adding a heat shield to the solenoid (pictured), in the end we sprung for a mini-starter, where we “clocked” all the important parts away from nearby header tubes. Re-routing the brake lines was required as well.

At the clutch countershaft,...

At the clutch countershaft, we had a narrow window to get the clutch rod past the scattershield on the right, while maintaining clearance from the header tube on the left. Some solve this problem by using the earlier ’64-’65 GTO countershaft, which does not have the gussets on the levers...

...but we stuck with our NOS...

...but we stuck with our NOS ’66 unit and juggled the clearances by adjusting the position of the retaining stud in the frame bracket. Not shown in the photo is the spacer we later installed under the stud to hold its position in the bracket, nor the felt grease seal on the engine side of the bracket.

The rest of our exhaust system...

The rest of our exhaust system consisted of an X-type pipe, cut-outs, high-flow mufflers, and mandrel-bent tailpipes—all 3.00 inches in diameter to accommodate our bigger-than-stock engine. Our original plan was to install the entire exhaust system before the body. After mocking it all up, we realized that the clearances to things like floorboards and fuel tanks could not be set when they aren’t there, and the kit needed some tweaking, so we knew we had more work ahead for us.

Positioning the giant tailpipes...

Positioning the giant tailpipes would be the most challenging task. Before mounting the body and fuel tank, we installed the OEM-style tailpipe hangers, and mocked up the pipes. While the driver-side tailpipe looked good in place right away, with a straight shot out the back, the passenger side tailpipe (not shown) needed to be tweaked to get it straight, along with adjusting the orientations of it, the muffler, the muffler hanger, and the tailpipe hanger.

By mixing and matching the...

By mixing and matching the X-type-pipe parts, we found a magic combination that fit right up to the collectors, as seen here in the mock-up. We were impressed again with the Doug’s headers, as they placed the collectors directly in line with the crossmember “humps,” allowing just enough room for our huge 3.00-inch tubes. Also seen in this shot is the transmission-mounted driveshaft loop we planned to use. Unfortunately, the X-style pipe wanted to occupy some of the same space, thus pushing the loop hard up into the floorboards (when the body was reinstalled).