The Competition Plus shifter...
The Competition Plus shifter from Hurst Shifters features a high-quality shifter body, heat-treated linkage rods, and adjustable gear stops to improve shift quality and overall feel when compared to an original. Shifter No. 391-8791 is specific to Second-Gen Firebird models with a Super T-10 transmission. The Install Kit (No. 373-8609) contains the correct shift rods and necessary hardware for complete installation. The pair retails for less than $400, and installs quickly and easily.
Unless you can shift like Ronnie Sox, automatic transmissions are simply more consistent when racing on the dragstrip. When it comes to street driving, however, most will agree that there’s no better feeling than rowing through the gears of a manual transmission. The quick and positive gear changes associated with a high-quality shifter assembly can accentuate the effect, but a sloppy shifter leaves much to be desired.
While most performance Pontiacs originally equipped with a manual transmission featured a factory-installed Hurst shifter assembly, and it was a step above the shifters used by the competition, the Hurst linkage that Pontiac chose for its production vehicles was designed with cost in mind. It wasn’t quite as smooth as the aftermarket shifters that Hurst’s reputation was built on.
Hurst’s Competition Plus has been popular with hobbyists for decades. A reliable, race-proven design, the Competition Plus unit is a strong, smooth-shifting assembly that is capable of enduring the harshest gear-change punishment. Hurst Shifters continues to produce this shifter for a number of vintage Pontiacs, and we’re told the shifter kits for Second-Gen Firebirds continue to sell well.
Our ’76 Trans Am’s original Hurst shifter was worn from 30-plus years of use, and in all the years we’ve owned it, we felt that it never shifted as smoothly as a performance shifter should. While at least one independent company offers a rebuilding service to restore its original functionality, it wouldn’t likely shift as well as a genuine Competition Plus. It took just one more missed gear to finalize the decision, and after a quick trip through Hurst Shifters’ online catalog, we had a new Competition Plus shifter assembly and Installation Kit on its way.
The swap-out was easy and the project was completed in a couple of hours. We noticed a dramatic difference in the overall feel of the shifter and how positive it made the transmission shift. It didn’t take long for us to gain enough confidence to bang a few gears, and the new shifter performed just as we expected.
Follow along as we install a Competition Plus shifter kit in our Trans Am and dramatically improve its shifting ability for a few hundred dollars.
Author’s Note: The actual shifter install was performed in or under the vehicle, but the tight confines made it difficult to photograph the entire process. Wanting to provide our readers with a clear depiction of each step, some of the photos were taken using a spare transmission fastened to an engine stand.
[1] Before installation can...
[1] Before installation can begin, the original Firebird shifter assembly must be completely removed, and the transmission should be in the Neutral position. The Hurst mounting plate is then fastened to the transmission tailshaft housing. The flat-head socket screw is installed using a 7⁄32-inch hex-head wrench, and the two bolts are installed at the bottom of the plate using a 9⁄16-inch wrench. We’ve found that a dab of blue thread-lock can help keep the bolts from vibrating loose during operation.
[2] The shifter body and its...
[2] The shifter body and its spacer are positioned on the mounting plate, and the long bolts and lock washers are installed using a 9⁄16-inch wrench. Again, blue thread-lock is recommended.
[3] Shift-arm and -rod assemblies...
[3] Shift-arm and -rod assemblies are arranged on the bench. The shift arms are individually numbered, while the shift rods are various lengths and are relatively easy to visually differentiate. Shift arm No. 2441 is specific to the 3-4 shift fork, and arm 2440 is for the 1-2 shift fork. The reverse arm, No. 0028, is visually different from the others and easily distinguishable.
[4] The shift rods are installed...
[4] The shift rods are installed onto the corresponding arms using the supplied nylon bushings and spring clips; they are oriented just as the instructions detail.
[5] A shift-rod adjuster button...
[5] A shift-rod adjuster button is threaded onto each rod so that it’s positioned about halfway down the thread.
[6] The shift arms are fastened...
[6] The shift arms are fastened to the shift forks using the original hardware and a 9⁄16-inch wrench, or you can use common 3⁄8-16 nuts and corresponding washers sourced from your local hardware store.
[7] With the shifter body...
[7] With the shifter body in Neutral, it’s locked into position using the supplied Neutral alignment rod or an 1⁄8-inch drill bit.
[8] The shift-rod adjuster...
[8] The shift-rod adjuster buttons are adjusted until each button easily slips into its appropriate lever. Each rod is then fastened to the shifter body using the supplied nylon bushing and spring clip. For verification, the lever closest to the transmission body is Reverse, the lever in the center is for the 1-2 rod, and the lever farthest away from the transmission body is the 3-4 rod. Once the rods are fully installed, the Neutral Alignment tool is removed. The trans is manually forced into each gear and back to Neutral, while looking carefully for any signs of the shift rods binding.
[9] Inside the T/A, the chrome-plated...
[9] Inside the T/A, the chrome-plated Hurst shifter handle is fastened to the shifter body using the supplied hardware and a 9⁄16-inch wrench. Blue thread-lock is highly suggested as the constant shifting motion can cause the bolts to work loose. The shifter is then manually forced into each gear to ensure that it works as it should. (If the transmission doesn’t go into a particular gear easily, you may have to depress the clutch pedal to align the synchronizer rings.)
[10] The shifter stop-bolts...
[10] The shifter stop-bolts that prevent over-running a particular gear during hard shifts are adjusted independently. To properly adjust the Second-gear stop bolt (rear), the trans is placed in Neutral and the bolt is backed out so only a few threads remain. Then the trans is placed in Second gear, the shifter handle is held steady with one hand, and the bolt is tightened by hand until it contacts the shifter assembly internally. Then the bolt is backed out one full turn and firmly locked into place. The Third-gear stop bolt (front) is adjusted in an identical fashion. Finally, the shifter is run through the gears to ensure there is enough travel in each one.
[11] Once the shifter stop-bolts...
[11] Once the shifter stop-bolts are adjusted properly, the rubber shift boot, trim plate, and shifter knob are installed, as is the center console, if required. We chose to reuse our original Pontiac knob as opposed to the white ball supplied with the shifter. A quick testdrive reveals that the shifting performance between the original Hurst shifter and the Competition Plus replacement is astounding. The aftermarket piece is smooth and positive, and lends great confidence when banging gears!
Reusing an Original Hurst Handle
The Hurst Competition Plus Shifter handle is constructed of flat steel, while the original Firebird shifter handle is constructed of round bar stock. Hobbyists less concerned with originality wouldn’t give the non-stock appearance of the Competition Plus handle a second thought, but if maintaining original appearance is important to you, we found a way to combine the improved performance of the Hurst Competition Plus shifter with an original shift handle.
[1] A Firebird’s original...
[1] A Firebird’s original Hurst shifter handle will not simply bolt on to the Competition Plus body. The original handle was clipped to the shifter body and its base was angled several degrees toward the passenger-side. We found this Firebird-specific Hurst handle (No. 7244 ) on eBay for less than $100.
[2] Using an acetylene torch,...
[2] Using an acetylene torch, we gently heated the base of the shift handle and bent it about 20 degrees toward the passenger side. The minor bluing that’s present will be covered by the rubber boot.
[3] Once cool, we drilled...
[3] Once cool, we drilled two 3⁄8-inch-diameter holes with a center-to-center distance of 7⁄8-inch into the base of the original handle. This will allow us to bolt the original Hurst handle to the Competition Plus body.
[4] Modified correctly, the...
[4] Modified correctly, the original Firebird shifter handle installs onto the Competition Plus shifter body just like the replacement that it comes with. And with the trim plate installed, it looks absolutely factory-stock, but shifts much better!